Mountain Project: Climbing North Cascades

Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006
Administrator: Peter Franzen
Latitude: 48.5123 Longitude: -120.6540
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Description

Washington Pass includes some spectacular and more easily accessible alpine climbs, ranging in difficulty from the South Arete of South Early Winter (5.4) to the ultra-classic Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell (free at 5.13a, otherwise 5.10b A3). The area is comprised (north to south) of Liberty Bell Mountain (7720'), Concord Tower (7560'), Lexington Tower (7560'), North Early Winter Spire (7760'), and South Early Winter Spire (7807'). The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.

Getting There

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Washington Pass:

South Arete 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II South Early Winters Spire

Beckey Route (SW Face) 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II Liberty Bell

SW Rib 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III South Early Winters Spire

Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III North Early Winter Spire

East Face / Rebel Yell 5.10 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire

The West Face 5.11- Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III North Early Winter Spire

Liberty Crack 5.11- C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V Liberty Bell

Featured Route For Washington Pass

Following the top of P1 - Left Side Start.

East Face / Rebel Yell 5.10 WA : North Cascades : ... : Chianti Spire

A 6 pitch line leading up striking splitter cracks. There are at least two starts possible, before joining at P3.Traditional start:P1/P2 - Follow the large left-facing dihedral with orange rock on the right, and grey on the left. The crack is wide, but protects well. 5.8-5.9Left Variation:P1 - Aim for the clean white left-facing corner to the left of the long orange, traditional start. One long pitch gets you up into the perfect finger crack and...[more] Browse More Classics in WA

Comments on Washington Pass

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By sqwirll
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 21, 2008

We did a fun linkup of all 5 spires this summer. We climbed the Beckey route on Liberty, North face of Concord, North Face of Lexington, NW Corner of NEWS, and SW Rib of SEWS. We ended up simulclimbing Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, and most of SEWS. It took us approximately 15 hours car to car at a casual pace. Two ropes are beneficial for the rappels off of Concord and Lexington, otherwise you'd have to leave gear. A fun way to get 20+ pitches of moderate climbing in a day.

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