BETA PHOTO: Ice climbing out of the shrund on the descent.
Description
A remote, glaciated peak at the north end of the Eldorado Icecap. The peak is composed of Skagit Gneiss and has some of the most spectacular views in Washington
Getting There
Primus can be approached either from the south, via the Cascade River Road, or the north, via the N. Cascade Highway.
South Approch-Follow Eldorado Creek up to Rouch Creek and over onto the Icecap. From here 7 or 8 miles of glacier travel northward will take you to Lucky Pass just east of Primus. This approach is best in early season when the glaciers are less broken.
North Aprroach: Follow the Thunder Creek Trail 6 miles to McCallister camp and cross the Thunder Creek. Follow the ridge radiating down from Tricouni Peak (staying generally to the left of the arete) up 5000 or so feet to the Borrealis Glacier/Lake.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Primus Peak:
North Ridge 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
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