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Castle Rock

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Castle Rock

Submitted By: ScottH on Jan 26, 2006
Administrator: Peter Franzen
Views: 2,049 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

Climbing on Castle Rock 1978.
Photo by Blitzo.


Description 

Castle Rock is home to many of the classic climbs in Tumwater Canyon, and is home to Washington's first multipitch, technical rock climb (Midway, Fred Beckey 1948). Historic climbs such as Angel Crack and Midway offer options for trad leaders seeking a range of difficulty from challenging to mellow routes. In general, the rock quality is excellent though many routes are highly polished from extensive traffic. Pitches leading to the summit of Castle rock can be somewhat indistinct and somewhat runout, offering an adventuresome feel on a well-traveled formation.

Castle Rock faces predominately southwest and can get a lot of sun. The rock is split by Logger's Ledge, a wide ledge halfway up the formation. Climbs on upper Castle begin from this ledge, which is reached by an obvious trail from the parking lot. Climbs on the lower half begin near the parking lot.

To descend from climbs which reach the summit of Castle Rock, follow a good climber's trail off the back of the formation down to Loggers Ledge.


Getting There 

Drive approximately 2 miles west up Highway 2 from Leavenworth. There is a large dirt parking lot on the "north" side of the road. From this parking lot, a signed trail leads to Logger's Ledge and upper Castle Rock. The approach is 10-15 minutes.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock:
Midway   5.5     Trad   
Saber   5.5     Trad, 2 pitches, 280 feet, Grade II   
Canary   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   
South Face, Jello Tower   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Damnation Crack   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Angel   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock

Featured Route For Castle Rock
The quintessential shot of P2.

Canary 5.8  WA : Leavenworth : ... : Castle Rock
Canary ascends from the right side of Logger's Ledge and reaches the top of Castle Rock in 2 pitches (3 may be necessary with a 50m rope). A memorable line, Canary combines interesting climbing with terrific exposure.Approximately 100 feet to the left of Saber, a short section of face climbing leads to a right facing dihedral and a broken crack system that reaches the left side of Saber ledge. This is the start of Canary.P1. Begin by climbing ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA


Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Topping out on Castle Rock after cleaning up the belay. The view is down canyon toward Leavenworth. July 4, 2007.

Topping out on Castle Rock after cleaning up the b...

Climbing at Castle Rock, late 1970s.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Climbing at Castle Rock, late 1970s.
Photo by Blit...