Climbers coming up the West Ridge Photo by Michiel...
Description
This climb mainly goes up easier terrain on solid rock. The most distinctive pitch is near the top and goes up a short exposed slab (5.7). Otherwise the climbing is 5.5 or easier. Stay fairly close to the ridge proper looking for easiest path. Spectacular position and fun climbing make this a classic. It would see 100X the traffic if you didn't have to hike 6 hrs to get to it.
Location
Coming up from Icicle canyon traverse the west side of the lake and climb to the top of the saddle on the west side of the peak. The route begin to the right up the prominent ridge.
A few rappels on the north side of the peak will get you back to easier ground. Downclimb the route.
Protection
Nuts and pro to 3 inches. There are no bolts but may be slings for anchors.
Climbed it car to car in 12 hours. For gear, we brought a single run of .5 to 2 camalots, a half dozen nuts, and a 60 m twin doubled over. This setup worked well and let us hike with very light packs.
By chrishar From: Seattle, WA Jul 29, 2009 rating: 5.7
There are slings at all belay stations, and the descent consists of 5 - 60m single rope rappels from the summit - very straightforward. Also, it should be noted that there appear to be bail slings from most belay stations so getting down is very possible if you can't complete the route for any reason. It's a surprisingly friendly route from that perspective, and probably due to the sheer amount of traffic it draws.
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