2009 Falcon Closure on Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth MORE INFO >>>
From the Washington Climbers Coalition webpage:
"Summary: As of April 22, 2009, most of Snow Creek Wall is subject to a formal closure to protect falcons that are nesting on Library Ledge, on Outer Space, the most famous climb in Leavenworth. The closure will remain in place through the nesting season, which is expected to end July 31, 2009."
I can't believe nobody has added this yet. Probably the most popular route in Leavenworth. Starts at the base of Snow Creek Wall and follows fantastic features up through the main shield to the top. This can be crowded, but it's a good place to chill and look at the view. Pretty easy to identify this route on the wall, because of the long, well-cleaned crack splitting the upper headwall. Follow that crack down to a ledge with a big cedar growing out of it. The regular start is the ledge/dihedral system about 80 feet right and 100 feet down from the end of that ledge.
p1/2: An easy corner/scramble to a ledge. From the ledge, traverse down and left to the huge ledge with the big tree; you'll probably have to do a little easy simulclimbing to do this as one pitch.(5.7). There's also several fun variations starting further left that are a bit harder, but would allow you to pass a really slow party on the first pitch.
p3: From the ledge, either head up a steep crack with juggy flakes (some are a bit hollow) or start from the left up a dihedral. Either way, you end up at a roof. Step out to the right (this is airy and fun, with great pro) and follow the crack out right until it heads up again. Be careful of drag. Belay on a nice sloping ledge. (5.9)
p4. Head up and left on an easy slab peppered with knobs toward a left-facing dihedral. Get into the dihedral (crux of this pitch), top out, and traverse left to another ledge. Watch out for rope drag on this, too. Longer than it looks. (5.8).
p5. The money pitch. Go up the obvious crack that splits the shield. One of the most enjoyable pitches in the world, I think. You will giggle the whole way up. It's 130 feet long (?). You can jam in any of the bomber, perfect jams along the way, or if you get tired of that, step onto the stair-like knobs peppering the face. Sublime. And it ends on a perfect ledge with a separate crack to set an anchor. (5.7)
p6. Keep following the crack. A little "bouldery" crack move gets you off the ledge, then it's cruiser jamming to the top. Getting all the way to the top in one pitch from here will stretch a 60m rope. You may have to stop on the slab to bring up your second before you actually hit the top and trees. Don't sweat it, though. There's room for gear everywhere. (5.9)
From here, there is a rap route, or scramble down the gullies on the left (as you're facing the wall). The descent sucks. Stay in the gully a bit longer than you think you need to before heading back toward the wall, or you will end up on higher ledges near Orbit, etc.
Protection
Cams up to a #3 camalot with doubles in hand size will sew this puppy up. Rack o' nuts and some long slings. Sensible shoes for the descent.
We didn't think the descent was particularly horrible. No fun, but not too long and not life threatening. My partner led the last pitch, and we simul-climbed for a while to get him to the top. He was stuffed butt-first into a bathtub, giving me a hip belay (it's okay, we do that all the time). Behind him was a mountain goat billy! He hung around watching us for half an hour or so, but never approached us to mooch or threaten. Very cool.
5.9 seems like a bit of a stretch for the final pitch. I guess the first few moves are, but the rest of the pitch is 5.7, no more than 5.8. Beautiful stuff!
Amazing route, great location, and don't forget that once you get to the top of the cliff you can hike (5-10 minutes) to the very top of the cliff and get a great panorama of the area. The decent wasn't all that bad; but I was very glad when it was over. Beautiful Alpine route that shouldn't be missed.
Snow creek wall has over 16 routes on it ranging from .8 to .11c. You should pick up Viktor Kramar's Leavenworth Rock 2nd edition, worth the money, with 1000 climbings in the area
Ferrells, one moderate variation (I know there are many more) that bypasses the forgettable "approach pitches" to the tree ledge is Remorse (actually the lower part of Remorse). 3 pitches of low 5th/5.8/5.7 get you to the money pitches on OS. Here's SP write up: http://www.summitpost.org/route/161038/remorse-variation-.ht>>>>>
We did this route and followed the first three pitches of Remorse. I thought it was a very good alternative to what the entrance pitches had to offer on Outer Space. The second pitch of the alternate on Remorse had a very nice and balancy 5.8 undercling.
Regarding the walk down as opposed to the rap. We walked off and it only took about 30 minutes. Not an easy walk off, but you'd be hard pressed to rap down that quickly I think.
Watch you head on the knobs, I almost knocked my self out. Hit my head so hard I don't remember when I did this route, just with my cousin who is not really a climber.
When I did this route I did a nice direct start. 5.6 scrambling leads into a dihedral directly below the belay at the bottom of the third pitch, with one 10b or so move (with a cam at your chest) at the top. Great start to an even better climb. you do not want to do the descent in your rock shoes, like I did
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