2009 Falcon Closure on Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth MORE INFO >>>
From the Washington Climbers Coalition webpage:
"Summary: As of April 22, 2009, most of Snow Creek Wall is subject to a formal closure to protect falcons that are nesting on Library Ledge, on Outer Space, the most famous climb in Leavenworth. The closure will remain in place through the nesting season, which is expected to end July 31, 2009."
Snow Creek Wall at approximately 800 feet in height is the premier crag in the Leavenworth area. Routes range from 5.7 to 5.12a and up to 8 pitches long. The rock is a high friction granite with good cracks and a large number of chickenheads on it. The classic rock climb Outer Space is located here, and is regarded as one of the best routes in the state.
Snow Creek Wall is a good place to climb in the spring and fall. It is a good idea to avoid this area in the heart of the summer due to its low elevation and eastern exposure. Expect crowds on the popular routes almost every weekend.
Getting There
Park at the Snow Creek Wall parking lot in Icicle Creek Canyon. Hike up the Snow Creek Trailhead for approximately 45 minutes until directly accross from the wall. Leave the trail and find a log to cross the creek on, then proceed uphill to the base of the wall.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Snow Creek Wall:
Outer Space 5.9 Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III
I can't believe nobody has added this yet. Probably the most popular route in Leavenworth. Starts at the base of Snow Creek Wall and follows fantastic features up through the main shield to the top. This can be crowded, but it's a good place to chill and look at the view. Pretty easy to identify this route on the wall, because of the long, well-cleaned crack splitting the upper headwall. Follow that crack down to a ledge with a big cedar gro...[more]Browse More Classics in WA
The descent off of Snow Creek Wall is probably not that complicated in the day, but if you find yourself doing it for the first time at night, as I did, you will be hating life. Here are some general tips:
1) From the top, do not descend the first gully. Cross the gully and begin descending the rib to its right. There is some downclimbing here, but you will eventually find a trail.
2) You will be heading generally down and right, towards the creek. After crossing a slab, head down.
3) You will now head down and way back left, picking your way across slabs. Downclimb a steep gully with a large tree in it. Pick up the trail leading left around a huge boulder.
4) When you come to another gully, do not go down-- go across and you will find yourself at the base of Orbit.
5) This place is swarming with ticks. Watch out.
By Eric Ruljancich From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC May 8, 2009
"As of April 22, 2009, most of Snow Creek Wall is subject to a formal closure to protect falcons that are nesting on Library Ledge, on Outer Space, the most famous climb in Leavenworth. The closure will remain in place through the nesting season, which is expected to end July 31, 2009."
The temporary closure in effect for the Snow Creek Wall (about 5 miles up the Icicle Road from Leavenworth) will be lifted on midnight, July 14 this year. The Main Wall and Shield area of the wall was closed to minimize human disturbance to peregrine falcons nesting in this area. Three falcon chicks fledged July 7th. Young will stay in the vicinity of their natal cliff and continue to be dependent on parent birds for food up to six weeks post-fledging. The Forest Service would like to thank the climbing community for supporting the closure and ensuring another successful year. Climbers are welcome back on the Main Wall starting July 15.