The Davis-Holland Route is a super-classic at Index. Although it technically has 6 pitches, nearly everyone only do the first 3 and either rap from there or continue up Lovin' Arms to the top of the Upper Wall (this combination is also very classic).
P1: Jam up a handcrack (sometimes a little wet and dirty, even if the rest of the route is clean, dry, and spectacular). Upon reaching a ledge, wander over right and then back to your left on small terraces to reach a bolted belay in a right-facing corner.
P2: Jam and/or lieback the crack up the right-facing corner to another bolted belay.
P3: Climb up and right from the anchor, then back left into a right-facing corner (another variation goes directly out left around the corner past a bolt, but the moves are very balancey and potentially harder than the route's original crux). Climb up the corner past a crux with delicate footwork and small holds to a bolted belay on a ledge. Rap from this belay (or continue on Lovin Arms).
Instead of rapping the route, it is a wiser choice to make one double rope (60m) rap to anchors at the top of the sport wall. From there a second double-rope rap will get you to the ground.
Location
The route is immediately to the left when you reach the upper town walls via the standard approach trail. It heads up a corner to the left of a blank face. Further uphill is the "sport wall."
Protection
A typical trad route, gear to 3" will suffice, although you could probably be fine without a #3. The crux pitch protects with small nuts, so bring extras if possible. All anchors are bolted.
There is a newer (and in my opinion, better) variation to Lovin Arms called Suicidal Thoughts of Paranoia aka STP. It goes at .11c/d and begins by following the obvious right trending bolt line from the top of the Davis-Holland 3rd pitch. After a short bit of "filler" climbing, you catch an awesome and challenging dike to a belay (.11c/d crux). Next is a meandering gear protected .11a that is mucho entertaining! Finally, connect with the 5.9 headwall of Loving Arms that leads to a spectacular topout.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jun 8, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Great climb. First pitch was wet (as advertised), but the finger locks are bomber so the water was more of a novelty than a problem. Second pitch is sweet fingers to tight hands - suprisingly pumpy and sustained for the grade. I brought three green Camalots (#0.75) and placed them all, and probably could have placed more - the crack is very consistent in that width and #1 Camalots didn't go in. Third pitch (we did the single bolt friction option out left) was varied, suspenseful, and fun. Lots of small nuts protect the business portion of this pitch. Each pitch was about 30-35m. We didn't have time for Lovin Arms, and rappelled straight down in 2 rappels (double rope).
A conservative rack for this climb would be nuts (including thin), double set of cams from fingers to #3 Camalot, with 1 or 2 extra green Camalots for good measure.
Great route. The second pitch is actually a left facing corner, not right facing as listed in the description. On 4/12, the first pitch was still a little wet but not too bad. The first pitch on Lovin' Arms was also a little wet.
P3 Cannot be rapped with a 60m rope, but can with a 70m. If you top out on the UTW With a 60m rope, you can move climber's left to a sport route just left of the major chimney/fault system and easily rap straight down (new fixed stations) with one 60m rope.
Bringing an extra rope is better than rapping over someone on another route.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Jul 9, 2008
Great, sustained, and highly recommended route. As per Andy's comment, I carried multiple green Camalots (5 total) and placed them all. It is also worth noting that it pays having a red and/or gold Camalot handy for the last 20 feet of climbing...it is on much easier terrain, but it's wider and feels a bit insecure compared to the perfect jams of the lower corner.
As reported, P2 sucked up the .75 Green BD. I used four of them, though I think if you look hard enough you could probably find spots in the crack that would accept another size. Regardless, if you take 3 of them or 5, you will use them and be fine.
Lovin Arms is a great finish. I would recommend this over rapping from P3.
If you only have a 60 meter rope and your topping out on Lovin Arms, there is a decent way to rap off the upper town wall using both the Heaven's Gate and Golden Road Anchors: See comments on Lovin Arms for descent info.
By Ian G. From: PDX, OR Aug 30, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Absolutely classic. Finish with Lovin' Arms for an epic day!
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