Just before the exiting the flakes and crossing th...
Description
Somewhat of an Index classic, Princely can be pretty popular. The first pitch is the best part. The Princely Ambitions area is basically the first part of the Main Wall you pass directly by on the main trail. Princely starts up an easy flake to the left of some shorter bolted routes whose anchors are pretty clearly visible from the ground. P1 (5.9) Head left up the easy flake/ramp, then out onto the face past one bolt (used to be two bolts...), then up more flakes. At the top of the flakes, follow a chalked-up ledge traversing left and then straight up the corner all the way to the belay (bolts). The pitch is long, so don't give up on the anchor, it is there. P2 (5.8) Continue up the left crack to a rap station.
Protection
Standard trad rack to 3-4". A small cam is very nice for the traverse (e.g. purple Alien). Larger cams are nice for the second pitch. There are anchors/rap stations at the top of both pitches. You need 2 60-m ropes to rap the route.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jul 2, 2006 rating: 5.9+
This is a VERY long pitch that wanders, so bring lots of long slings! Some committing moves will be encountered, so I recommend being comfortable at the grade. A little bit of everything here including slab, liebacks, steep hand traverses, etc. Bring a big assortment of gear up to #3 Camalot. A 70m rope just barely makes the big ledge, but some downclimbing from the ledge would be required.
I start this climb from off the trail to Rodger's Corner and routinely lower off and do laps on the first pitch with a 70 meter rope. One of my favorite pitches anywhere!
Main Wall
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