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Slapshot 

5.12a

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 42 page views

Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jul 15, 2008


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Description 

A line that climbs a lot like a Gritstone route.

Begin with one of two cruxy start options off the deck: Either start directly below the arete and make a deadpoint slap with your left hand using a severely polished left foot, or choose to traverse in from the left. Either way you chose, it is pretty difficult to get established.

Once you have gained access to the blunt arete, follow a series of insecure moves up the arete using a large amount of core tension, open-hand slaps and pinches, and inventive heel/toe hooking.

After the first 30 feet, however, the route becomes somewhat contrived, as it is very easy to escape around to the right of the arete and into the safety of the 5.8 crack.

(Note: The first 2 bolts have been removed, so leading it is not the safest idea. It is very easy to TR it off the slung spike below "Even Steven".)


Location 

The blunt arete directly below "Even Steven".


Protection 

First 2 bolts are missing, upper two are still intact.