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Routes in South Face
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Jensen's Ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bellflower, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free for All T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dod's Dastardly Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Roll On Columbia T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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North Country T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Steppenwolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Local Access Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flying Circus T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Flight Time T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Maiden's Escape, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Beekeeper's Apprentice, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Ground Zero T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dirty Double, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pink Panther, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blownout T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blownout (to 1st anchor) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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[Redacted] T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spring Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bluebird T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tennessee Walker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Right Gull T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Wing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crazy Horse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Uprising T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fire & Ice T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bladerunner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rookie Nookie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Rockmaster T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stardust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sunrise Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Boardwalk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whit's Wall T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Joseph Healy, Bill Coe, Karsten Duncan, et.al. FFA-Joseph Healy, Karsten Duncan |
| Page Views: | 3,829 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Healyje on Jan 23, 2006 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
This new route occurred primarily by the vision and dedication of Joseph Healy in 2005. Its an adventurous climb with some serious sections and classic basalt features.
Pitch 1: 5.8 Climb the first pitch of Young Warriors. This pitch contains many bolts and several optional small gear placements low on the pitch.
Pitch 2: 5.9 From the top of pitch 1 of Y.W. climb straight above the slung p1 anchor until you can move right onto short ledge leading to a shallow right-leaning, left facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral and the arete formed by it until it turns vertical and then go straight up to a small ledge with bolted anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.11 This crux pitch goes up from the right end of the small ledge and up broad and steep left facing dihedral. Climb the diherdal until you can't free climb any higher and you'll be at a changing corners area. Either aid two moves or and traverse right around arete (crux). This move can be protected by a two medium size cam placed up in the underside of the angled slash going out right. Above the crux continue up and right. Once you reach a good ledge the pitch continues up and left straight up a rough looking face to a ledge and anchor above it. [However, up and right of the first good ledge is another anchor that can be used to bail the route with two ropes which will get you back down to the Boardwalk p1 anchor. This is effectively the last point to bail.]
Pitch 4: 5.10+ Move out right from the anchor up a steep slab and protect with loweballs and a pin to a steep mantle. Clip fixed pin and then climb up under a large roof. Pull roof through the left side slot and climb right and then left above the roof to an anchor on yellow rock in an low angle slab alcove.
Pitch 5: 5.9 Move left around a corner and up diagonally left angling cracks on a face to top out. The crux of this pitch is through an obvious confluence of cracks; at the crux there are three wedged shield shaped rocks which are slightly loose. Carefully use the leftmost rock and move up to the final moves which go slightly right to top out with an interesting twist. Head up to the large 'bonsai' looking tree and belay from there.
Pitch 6 / Descent: At the large bonsai tree you have reached the lower part of the overall high SE Corner ridge ramp. Continue up the ramp which joins with both the SE Face and Young Warriors routes for the final 6th pitch up the upper ramp. At the top of the ramp before the trees unrope. Exit left for about 30' (north, away from the river) and follow switchback trail up the guardrail and tourist trail and take it back down to the parking lot.
[ Note: the large bonsai tree at the top of the route was blown down during a storm in March 2010 and is no longer there. In it's place will be a large 30-40' scar in the lower corner ramp. ]
Pitch 1: 5.8 Climb the first pitch of Young Warriors. This pitch contains many bolts and several optional small gear placements low on the pitch.
Pitch 2: 5.9 From the top of pitch 1 of Y.W. climb straight above the slung p1 anchor until you can move right onto short ledge leading to a shallow right-leaning, left facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral and the arete formed by it until it turns vertical and then go straight up to a small ledge with bolted anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.11 This crux pitch goes up from the right end of the small ledge and up broad and steep left facing dihedral. Climb the diherdal until you can't free climb any higher and you'll be at a changing corners area. Either aid two moves or and traverse right around arete (crux). This move can be protected by a two medium size cam placed up in the underside of the angled slash going out right. Above the crux continue up and right. Once you reach a good ledge the pitch continues up and left straight up a rough looking face to a ledge and anchor above it. [However, up and right of the first good ledge is another anchor that can be used to bail the route with two ropes which will get you back down to the Boardwalk p1 anchor. This is effectively the last point to bail.]
Pitch 4: 5.10+ Move out right from the anchor up a steep slab and protect with loweballs and a pin to a steep mantle. Clip fixed pin and then climb up under a large roof. Pull roof through the left side slot and climb right and then left above the roof to an anchor on yellow rock in an low angle slab alcove.
Pitch 5: 5.9 Move left around a corner and up diagonally left angling cracks on a face to top out. The crux of this pitch is through an obvious confluence of cracks; at the crux there are three wedged shield shaped rocks which are slightly loose. Carefully use the leftmost rock and move up to the final moves which go slightly right to top out with an interesting twist. Head up to the large 'bonsai' looking tree and belay from there.
Pitch 6 / Descent: At the large bonsai tree you have reached the lower part of the overall high SE Corner ridge ramp. Continue up the ramp which joins with both the SE Face and Young Warriors routes for the final 6th pitch up the upper ramp. At the top of the ramp before the trees unrope. Exit left for about 30' (north, away from the river) and follow switchback trail up the guardrail and tourist trail and take it back down to the parking lot.
[ Note: the large bonsai tree at the top of the route was blown down during a storm in March 2010 and is no longer there. In it's place will be a large 30-40' scar in the lower corner ramp. ]
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