Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>>
From the Washington Park's Page Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing except where it interferes with nesting raptors, primarily on the south face. The presence of the falcon nest requires that the south face be closed to technical rock activity February 1 to mid-July annually; open the rest of the year. The east face is closed year-round due to environmental sensitivity. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
A lone 400’ basalt monolith that sits prominently in the spectacular Columbia Gorge, Beacon Rock is an obvious climbing destination for Portland climbers. Although much of the rock in the gorge is of poor quality Beacon Rock has plenty of solid and steep lines. A handful of boulders are tucked away in the woods below.
The descent off of Beacon Rock is one of the easiest anywhere. An elaborate stainless steel "trail" of platforms and staircases is bolted to the East side of Beacon Rock which makes for an easy hike to the top for tourists, or an easy descent for climbers.
Getting There
The easiest way to reach Beacon Rock is to take State Route 14 29 miles East from Vancouver, Washington. Alternatively, you can take I-84 East from Portland and cross The Bridge of the Gods (have some change handy, as it’s a toll bridge), and then West on SR 14 to the park.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beacon Rock:
This is a great link-up of classic (mostly) hand cracks that takes a direct line up the South Face, ending at the hiker's trail for an easy descent.P1, Free for All (5.8 or 5.9): Start at a small detached pillar, climbing either the left or right sides. The left side is harder (given .10a in Portland Rock Climbs); if climbing it, bring a couple of slings to girth-hitch constrictions up high. From the pillar top, a seemingly endless e...[more]Browse More Classics in WA
You might also add that the east face is currently closed to climbing.
The last few years have seen a revitalization of climbing and stewardship at beacon rock. There has been extensive anchor restoration, route cleaning, and new route development in the last few years. This summer there are plans to reclaim several more once popular routes of foliage and debris.
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
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