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Washington Pass

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Concord Tower 
Kangaroo Temple 
Le Petit Cheval 
Lexington Tower 
Liberty Bell 
m&m wall 
North Early Winter Spire 
Pernod Spire 
Silver Star and connected spires 
South Early Winters Spire 

Washington Pass 


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Location: 48.5123, -120.654 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006
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The Liberty Bell group as seen from below the Wine...

Description 

Washington Pass includes some spectacular and more easily accessible alpine climbs, ranging in difficulty from the South Arete of South Early Winter (5.4) to the ultra-classic Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell (free at 5.13a, otherwise 5.10b A3). The area is comprised (north to south) of Liberty Bell Mountain (7720'), Concord Tower (7560'), Lexington Tower (7560'), North Early Winter Spire (7760'), and South Early Winter Spire (7807'). The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.


Getting There 

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.


36 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',7],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',9],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Washington Pass:
South Arete   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   South Early Winters Spire
Beckey Route (SW Face)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   Liberty Bell
North Face   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'   Concord Tower
North Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   Silver Star and connected s... : Burgundy Spire
Rapple Grapple   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   Liberty Bell
Overexposure   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'   Liberty Bell
The Cave Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   Concord Tower
West Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 600'   Silver Star and connected s... : Paisano Pinnacle
SW Rib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   South Early Winters Spire
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   North Early Winter Spire
NW Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   Liberty Bell
East Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 800'   Lexington Tower
East Face / Rebel Yell   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire
Direct East Buttress   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches   South Early Winters Spire
The West Face   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   North Early Winter Spire
The Hitchhiker   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 900'   South Early Winters Spire
Liberty Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C2     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200'   Liberty Bell
Serpentine Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   Liberty Bell
Northwest Face   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   South Early Winters Spire
The Passenger   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   South Early Winters Spire
Browse More Classics in Washington Pass

Featured Route For Washington Pass
This photo, taken late in season, shows most of the East Face. Usually there will be more snow in place. Green start is highly suggested.

East Face / Rebel Yell 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  WA : Northwest Region : ... : Chianti Spire
A 6 pitch line leading up striking splitter cracks. There are at least two starts possible, before joining at P3.Traditional start:P1/P2 - Follow the large left-facing dihedral with orange rock on the right, and grey on the left. The crack is wide, but protects well. 5.8-5.9Left Variation:P1 - Aim for the clean white left-facing corner to the left of the long orange, traditional start. One long pitch gets you up into the perfect finger crack and to a small stance below a chimney. Save yellow al...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Washington Pass Slideshow Add Photo
the wine spires as viewed from SEWS
the wine spires as viewed from SEWS
The popular backside (westside) of WA Pass.  From left to right, Liberty Bell, Concord Tower, Lexington Tower, North & South Early Winter Spires.
The popular backside (westside) of WA Pass. From ...
Washington Pass shrouded in clouds, a little unusual for August. The Early Winter Spires are on the left and Liberty Bell is the rightmost peak. (Photo thanks to Matt Farmer)
Washington Pass shrouded in clouds, a little unusu...
Washington Pass overview
Washington Pass overview
The Washington Pass summits cast a shadow below
The Washington Pass summits cast a shadow below
Highline rigged between South and North Early Winter Spires.  Made for good entertainment.  Taken from summit of Liberty Bell.
Highline rigged between South and North Early Wint...
Comments on Washington Pass Add Comment
Show which comments
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Oct 21, 2008

We did a fun linkup of all 5 spires this summer. We climbed the Beckey route on Liberty, North face of Concord, North Face of Lexington, NW Corner of NEWS, and SW Rib of SEWS. We ended up simulclimbing Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, and most of SEWS. It took us approximately 15 hours car to car at a casual pace. Two ropes are beneficial for the rappels off of Concord and Lexington, otherwise you'd have to leave gear. A fun way to get 20+ pitches of moderate climbing in a day.