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Washington Pass
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Concord Tower 
Kangaroo Temple 
Le Petit Cheval 
Lexington Tower 
Liberty Bell 
m&m wall 
North Early Winter Spire 
Pernod Spire 
Silver Star and connected spires 
South Early Winters Spire 

Washington Pass 


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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006

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Washington Pass shrouded in clouds, a little unusu...

Description 

Washington Pass includes some spectacular and more easily accessible alpine climbs, ranging in difficulty from the South Arete of South Early Winter (5.4) to the ultra-classic Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell (free at 5.13a, otherwise 5.10b A3). The area is comprised (north to south) of Liberty Bell Mountain (7720'), Concord Tower (7560'), Lexington Tower (7560'), North Early Winter Spire (7760'), and South Early Winter Spire (7807'). The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.


Getting There 

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Washington Pass:
South Arete   5.5     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II   South Early Winters Spire
Beckey Route (SW Face)   5.6     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II   Liberty Bell
Overexposure   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II   Liberty Bell
North Face   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   Silver Star and connected s... : Burgundy Spire
SW Rib   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   South Early Winters Spire
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route)   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III   North Early Winter Spire
East Face   5.9+     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Lexington Tower
East Face / Rebel Yell   5.10     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire
Direct East Buttress   5.11a     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade III   South Early Winters Spire
The West Face   5.11-     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III   North Early Winter Spire
Liberty Crack   5.11- C2     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V   Liberty Bell
Browse More Classics in Washington Pass

Featured Route For Washington Pass
The Early Winter Spires. North Early Winter is on the left. The Boving-Pollack Route heads up slightly left of center to the tree-covered ledge, then continues up and left. (Photo thanks to Matt Farmer)

Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) 5.9  WA : North Cascades : ... : North Early Winter Spire
Typically done in 5 pitches, some can be strung together to do it in 4. There are some wide bits, but they are actually quite fun and don't require the use of wide crack techniques. The climb starts by scrambling up a trail traversing north along the base of North Early Winter to the base of a corner/crack that leads up to a ledge with lots of trees. P1 - Climb the crack/corner to the ledge. Part of it is a chimney that doesn't have much in terms of protection, but this section is short and fair...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA


Photos of Washington Pass Slideshow Add Photo
The popular backside (westside) of WA Pass.  From left to right, Liberty Bell, Concord Tower, Lexington Tower, North & South Early Winter Spires.

The popular backside (westside) of WA Pass. From ...

Washington Pass overview

Washington Pass overview

Highline rigged between South and North Early Winter Spires.  Made for good entertainment.  Taken from summit of Liberty Bell.

Highline rigged between South and North Early Wint...

the wine spires as viewed from SEWS

the wine spires as viewed from SEWS

The Washington Pass summits cast a shadow below

The Washington Pass summits cast a shadow below


Comments on Washington Pass Add Comment
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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Oct 21, 2008

We did a fun linkup of all 5 spires this summer. We climbed the Beckey route on Liberty, North face of Concord, North Face of Lexington, NW Corner of NEWS, and SW Rib of SEWS. We ended up simulclimbing Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, and most of SEWS. It took us approximately 15 hours car to car at a casual pace. Two ropes are beneficial for the rappels off of Concord and Lexington, otherwise you'd have to leave gear. A fun way to get 20+ pitches of moderate climbing in a day.