Washington Pass includes some spectacular and more easily accessible alpine climbs, ranging in difficulty from the South Arete of South Early Winter (5.4) to the ultra-classic Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell (free at 5.13a, otherwise 5.10b A3). The area is comprised (north to south) of Liberty Bell Mountain (7720'), Concord Tower (7560'), Lexington Tower (7560'), North Early Winter Spire (7760'), and South Early Winter Spire (7807'). The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.
From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.
Browse More Classics in Washington Pass
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Washington Pass:
North Face 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Silver Star and connected s... : Burgundy Spire
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III North Early Winter Spire
East Face / Rebel Yell 5.10 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire
Featured Route For Washington Pass
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) 5.9 WA : North Cascades : ... : North Early Winter Spire
Typically done in 5 pitches, some can be strung together to do it in 4. There are some wide bits, but they are actually quite fun and don't require the use of wide crack techniques. The climb starts by scrambling up a trail traversing north along the base of North Early Winter to the base of a corner/crack that leads up to a ledge with lots of trees. P1 - Climb the crack/corner to the ledge. Part of it is a chimney that doesn't have much in terms of protection, but this section is short and fair...[more] Browse More Classics in WA