|West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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This is a one pitch route that climbs a good crack in the back of a low-angle dihedral. It is just to the left of The Unsaid and is a great warm-up for any climbs in the area. The climbing is fun on positive holds and is always well protected.
There is a second pitch. Per Dave Holliday: Steve Levin describes a second pitch to this route (5.2). After getting to the anchor atop the first pitch, clamber over some choss to access a low-angle slab. Climb it with periodic gear placements in the corner to a cable anchor with rappel rings.
Standard trad rack. Bolt anchors at the top allow for top-roping subsequent ascents.
Eds. The anchor may be a rope stretcher to rappel with a short downclimb with a 50m rope to the ledge 30 ft up. Consider 2 ropes or a 60m rope. Also, if you belay from the ground, do not lower with a single rope!
BETA PHOTO: Eds. Note, this rappel may be a rope stretcher wi...
Gary Schmidt having fun onsighting the pitch of Wa...
Marga Powell getting pro at the start of the steep...
Getting into the dihedral.
Moving over the crux move on the route.
Nick Thompson stemming out 1/2 way up.
The final high stepping move.
Eric makes his way up Washington Irving.
|By Holly Barnard|
Mar 12, 2002
This a great route for its grade. I would give it 3 stars. The route eats a standard rack, so its good for a beginning [Eldo] leader. You often have the option of shoving in a cam or using more creative nut placements from good stances. Bring some longer runners for lower placements and for the option of tying yourself in at the anchors. You can do a short 5.4ish pitch down and right of the climb in order to reach the belay ledge if you feel like doing something only slightly more interesting than scrambling up.
Jul 10, 2002
anybody know what the bolted route is that goes on above washington? I jumped on it and definitely hit my ceiling for the day. Must go at 5.12 something? Thanks
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2002
The 3 bolt line above Washington Irving is listed as "Atom Smasher 12c" in the latest edition of Rossiter.
|By James Balasalle|
Sep 23, 2002
I agree. A great climb for the beginning Eldo leader. It was my first Eldo lead. Protecting the first bulge is a tad tricky, but definitely doable. There are two sets of [bolts] at the top that you can used to rap off, or top rope [The Unsaid].
|By Peter Spindloe|
From: North Vancouver, BC
Dec 10, 2002
This route was the subject of an amusing episode in John Long's book "Close Calls : Climbing Mishaps & Near-Death Experiences." If the pseudonym-protected subjects of the story peruse this site, would they care to reveal themselves?
|By Mike Epke|
From: Denver, CO
Jul 21, 2003
Super fun route with some committing moves for a 5.6, but as said before the route eats the pro up and is a touch harder than Calypso for the same grade.
deserves three stars
|By James Garnett|
From: Bellingham, WA
May 8, 2004
Don't need anything bigger than a #2 Camalot here; a full set of nuts and a few tricams would probably suffice.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
May 15, 2005
Easier than Duh Dihedral but still requires a couple of thoughtful moves, though the cruxes are easy to protect. Definitely worth doing if in the area.
|By Lee Smith|
Aug 12, 2007
Great route for new trad leaders but one suggestion: be very aware of what you are placing gear into. There is a section approximately half way up that has some very loose blocks and hollow flakes. It is easy to place gear in this section but just as easy to pull it out!
Also, if you belay from the ground this route is way longer than the 100 feet listed in the description.
|By Mark Cushman|
From: Cumming, GA
Oct 21, 2007
I agree with James, you don't need anything bigger than large hands for this route. It protects very well with passive gear, too.
|By J. Fox|
From: Black Hawk, CO
Mar 10, 2008
Definitely a good route for beginning trad leaders (like me) wanting an intro to Eldo. This was/is harder than any .6 I'd done previously. It makes you think. I placed everything from a tiny stopper (#4) all the way up to a #4 Camalot. I'm sure I was over protecting though, since I'm kinda new to leading trad. Fun route though overall.
|By Abram Herman|
From: Golden, CO
Jun 6, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Fun climb with good mix of holds. Easily protected, didn't need anything larger than #3 Camalot. Seems much easier to make the short climb up onto the ledge than to belay from the ground; we had about 5 ft. left to the middle marks (w/o stretch) when I led on a 60m, so from the ground I don't think you could lower/TR from it safely.
|By Claire Rose|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2012
This was a great route for my first time climbing and first pitch. Easy to protect from what I understand.
|By Dave Holliday|
Jan 18, 2014
In the second edition of Steve Levin's excellent guide to the canyon, he describes a second pitch to this route (5.2). After getting to the anchor atop the first pitch, clamber over some choss to access a low-angle slab. Climb it with periodic gear placements in the corner to a cable anchor with rappel rings.
The two pitches are easily linked; clip one of the anchor bolts atop the first pitch to keep the rope from getting sucked into a crack as you continue up the second pitch.