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Wasatch Range

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Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

White Rock Loop
A fun and fast loop that is great for the family or novice mountain bikers. Near Syracuse, UT
Split Rock Loop
An awesome loop with switchbacks and great views. Near Syracuse, UT
Wild Rose Loop
A fun loop with exciting downhill/flow options. Near North Salt Lake, UT
Bonneville Shoreline Trail - Ensign Peak
A less-crowded segment of the BST, with a fast descent into City Creek Canyon. Near Salt Lake City, UT
Bobsled via Bonneville Shoreline Trail
A challenging ride featuring consistent climbs, and amazing descents through the ridges around SLC. Near Salt Lake City, UT
Bonneville Shoreline Trail - Bobsled Access
Great views of Salt Lake City, combined with winding singletrack make for an excellent climb. Near Salt Lake City, UT
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Wasatch Range  


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Wasatch Range 

The Wasatch Range stretches from northern Utah, near the Idaho border, to central Utah beyond Mt. Nebo.

The range contains several major canyons, and a lot of minor canyons. Logan and American Fork Canyon (among others) are limestone; Big Cottonwood Canyon is quartzite, and Little Cottonwood Canyon is granite-like quartz monzonite. Superb climbing in all four of these.

In addition Bell's Canyon, near Salt Lake City, and Rock Canyon, near Provo, deserve mention.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.9 miles from here

3,585 Total Routes

['4 Stars',194],['3 Stars',1170],['2 Stars',1491],['1 Star',639],['Bomb',23]
['<=5.6',228],['5.7',212],['5.8',336],['5.9',420],['5.10',851],['5.11',636],['5.12',336],['5.13',85],['>=5.14',6],['',0],['<=V1',82],['V2-3',174],['V4-5',74],['V6-7',36],['V8-9',14],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wasatch Range:
The West Slabs   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1660'   Mount Olympus : The West Slabs
Steorts' Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag
Outside Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall
Beckey's Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area
Crescent Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress
Pentapitch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
Bushwhack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area
Lowe Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall
Satan's Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area
The Coffin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress
Hollow Man   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces
The Green Adjective   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully
Gordon's Hangover   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully
Sasquatch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
Mexican Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress
Goodro's Wall   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island
Bongeater   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bongeater Buttress
Squawstruck   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 22 pitches, 1900'   Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak
License To Thrill   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   American Fork Canyon : The Membrane
Arm and Hammer   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower
Browse More Classics in Wasatch Range

Featured Route For Wasatch Range
Rob on that insecure 1st pitch.

High Dive 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Glass Ocean and Environs
High Dive is a really cool route. It can be done as one or two pitches, and has a couple of different approaches. One way to get up to it is to get on top of the large block on the left side of the Glass Ocean wall. Do this by either climbing Lord of Long Arms, Atlantis, or scrambling from the left. From here, the route climbs through some fixed pitons. The other approach, which I used, starts from the anchors on top of pitch 1 of the Northwest Passage. I reached these anchors by starting u...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Wasatch Range Slideshow Add Photo
my bud whipping off of 'Up a Cliff W/O a Ladder'--...
my bud whipping off of 'Up a Cliff W/O a Ladder'--...
Ben on the South Ridge of Mt. Superior
Ben on the South Ridge of Mt. Superior
Autumn in the Wasatch. Photo by Blitzo.
Autumn in the Wasatch. Photo by Blitzo.
R.I.P. Brent Higgins was a wonderful human, amazin...
R.I.P. Brent Higgins was a wonderful human, amazin...
View of Lone Peak in early May.
View of Lone Peak in early May.
Ferguson is sweet, sweet, sweet...it just took awh...
Ferguson is sweet, sweet, sweet...it just took awh...
Looking out over Provo from a vantage point south ...
Looking out over Provo from a vantage point south ...
Wildlife,
Wildlife,
SLC boulders
BETA PHOTO: SLC boulders
Sunset just outside SLC
Sunset just outside SLC
Jimmy may be out of commission now, but he looked ...
Jimmy may be out of commission now, but he looked ...
This is the place!
This is the place!
Climbers in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Photo by Bli...
Climbers in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Photo by Bli...
From Mt. Olympus, 2001 (Millcreek and Parleys)
From Mt. Olympus, 2001 (Millcreek and Parleys)
Looking up Timp. from just above Battle Creek Cany...
Looking up Timp. from just above Battle Creek Cany...
umm...another shot of helmetgate (aka far east hel...
umm...another shot of helmetgate (aka far east hel...
spring-time crowd at helmetgate
spring-time crowd at helmetgate
Wasatch Alpine Aspens
Wasatch Alpine Aspens

Comments on Wasatch Range Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 26, 2014
By Mike Kurilich
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 26, 2009
WARNING! A person or persons has chopped the routes at Geezer Wall!!! At this point do not waist your time going up to climb at this crag. I am going to hike up and assess the damage done by the culprits this afternoon.

If anyone knows the individuals that went to the trouble to KILL this crag we'd like to have a discussion on why such a harsh measure was taken to KILL a little gem that had a host of SAFE sport and mixed routes for the 5.5 to easy 5.10 leader. To put it bluntly, you people are anti-climbing community and ought to quit climbing. The amount of effort (with significant cost) to put up these routes FOR THE SLC CLIMBING COMMUNITY and beyond, and the quality and well thought out nature of the routes, did not justify KILLING THE CRAG.

It's in the hands of all you climbers out there if you feel this was justified fine, call the Geezer Wall dead. If you feel this action was unnecessary and want the routes to go back up come together and make it happen prove to those freaks that did the deed this is uncalled for, will not be tolerated and unacceptable in this climbing community. Thanks for the support!

Localism sucks and like on the coast, those that adopt this elitist mentality need to be called out and punished. Banishment from climbing in the central Wasatch is the minimum these individuals need to receive: Yeah I'm really irked about this BS.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 4, 2010
The Wasatch Range has a long history of bold visions and extraordinary pioneers that have made climbing in these here parts some of the best around. Which brings people from all over the world to get a little taste of it. Some would even like to leave their own mark. That's great and encouraged. But we can't just go running around this precious wilderness area doing what we please. It's potentially damaging, not only to the long and beautiful climbing history here, but to the access of all of it. We are not as lucky as the ones who were around during the "Golden Era". But we can respect the ones that were and not taint what they started here in the Wasatch. So with new people come new points of views. I recommend that if you have "sporty" stuff in mind, then consult the SLCA (saltlakeclimbers.org/) first. Especially before mass drilling a bunch of bolts, or on the other hand just removing a bunch of bolts too. They are the local body that represents our climbing community in this area.

The bolt wars will go on. But please understand that by trying to make things doable for all or even yourself is not always possible first of all. And access will not stay available forever if we let everybody in on the secret. It's okay to stay on the ground if you're not ready for it that day. There's always tomorrow. It's okay to aspire to greater things.
By Joseph Kall
From: Cedar City, UT
Oct 16, 2011
I will collaborate the comment about tics. They exist and the threat is real! I got bit by one tick (Little Cottonwood area)and came up positive for Lymes IgM P23 Ab. I was asymptomatic (no symptoms)! I was lucky to discover I was positive and just finished 90 days of antibiotics. Do not take the threat lightly. This disease is often misdiagnosed due to its varying symptoms. It can cause permanent damage and or death if left untreated.
By Bierson
Jul 29, 2012
Check out some of the beta and photos from my recent trip out to SLC! biersons.com/2012/07/29/rock-c...
By AGoo
Jul 30, 2012
Climbed Open Book on Pie and Beer Day last week. Some how lost a number 2 TCU and Wild Country sling draw. If you find it and would be kind enough to return it I would gladly make it worth your time i.e. Beer, Money, a Thank You Card or Cookies.

763-458-4825
By phil glenn
Jul 29, 2013
Found climbers's pack in Big Cottonwood Canyon fall of 2012; lots of valuable equipment; still trying to find owner. Describe contents and equipment on pack; call P Glenn @ 801-558-3312
By Brendan Woodard
Nov 2, 2013
Hey whats up all local and visiting climbers of the Wasatch range. I am new in town here and I live right at the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon,
only problem is I have no climbing Partners in the area. I am a safe climber, and can lead in the 5-7 to 5-10 b range and am up for challenges above that grade to. Just no climbing partners for outside. If your interested please text me at 719 429 7091 my name is Brendan you won't be disappointed i am safe, easy to get along with, and up for a good time. So if you need a partner or wouldn't mind showing a newbie around the area CALL ME. Thanks everyone.
By gmoney
Nov 8, 2013
I think I lost my ring in either the 5-mile or hillside parking. It is a gray tungsten ring with a polished band in the center. If you find it please see me let me know. matthew.garvin7@gmail.com
By BUCktown
May 16, 2014
Lost my smith sunglasses on the bong eater up LCC. if you find them make me proud. 8017930521

thanks
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
May 26, 2014
SLCA Fundraiser Party
SLCA Fundraiser Party

5th ANNUAL SALT LAKE CLIMBERS ALLIANCE FUNDRAISER PARTY
An evening of pro athletes, arm wrestling, vendor booths, beer, crate stacking, pig roast, silent auction, crate stacking, and free swag galore!
Presented by BLACK DIAMOND EQUIPMENT
Sponsored by Red Rock Brewery
June 12th, 2014 / 6-10pm
2084 E 3900 S, Salt Lake City (BD parking lot)
$25 in advance at saltlakeclimbers.org
$30 at the door ($25 SLCA Members at the door)
$10 for kids under 12
TICKETS saltlakeclimbers.org
$ RAISED = Adopt a Crags, Joe’s Valley potties, Craggin’ Classic, Wasatch Anchor and Bolt Replacement, A VOICE FOR WASATCH CLIMBERS