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One of the greatest trad climbs at Smith and amoung the best 5.11's.
The upper two pitches are rarely done, only pitch 1 is described here.
Start out with some tricky stemming (1st crux)up an open corner with a thin crack then move right folowing the crack. Follow excellent holds up the crack through a hand traverse section into a changing corners section and finally finishing with a single face move (second crux) below the anchor.
Left of Heresy right of the Beard.
nuts and cams to 3"
Who was Wartley? ...and why was he so pissed?
A friend gracefully working his way up the first p...
Passing the crux, easier than gorge routes at the ...
|Comments on Wartley's Revenge
|By Eric Brown|
From: Corvallis, oregon
Nov 2, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Upper pitches are pretty loose.
|By Christopher Wright|
Oct 4, 2009
The upper pitches are certainly not as classic as the first, but the whole climb makes for a pretty enjoyable outing anyway. It is a bit loose, but it's Smith, right? It's all fun climbing and you get to visit the Hobbit Hole, a neat spot, and then do some fun ridge-running back to the Cinnamon Slab anchors. Worth doing.
|By Mike Rowley|
Jan 14, 2011
This climb is really fun! It was my first .11 trad lead... ONSIGHT!! Compared to other .11's that ive TR'd it seemed a little soft? Great climb though with super fun moves!
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 14, 2011
Try Shoes of the Fisherman. Same grade, right next door ;)
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Jun 9, 2011
I was surprised by the lack of feet on the traverse, as well as how awkward the final leaning crack was. Finishing crux is probably somewhat height dependent. Plenty of options for shorter folks, but I think being taller makes this move easier.