Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Christian Brothers
Select Route:
Am I Evil? 
Asterisk, The 
Attic Antics 
Barbecue The Pope 
Blasphemy 
Blue Balls 
Bowling Alley 
Boy Prophet 
Catherine Finds An Edge 
Charlie's Chimney 
Child's Play 
Culture of Fear 
Dancer 
Double Trouble 
Dreamin' 
Earth Boys 
El Sancho 
Golgotha 
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp 
Heathen's Highway 
Heresy 
Hesitation Blues 
Holy Road, The 
Irreverence 
Jete 
left side of the Beard, The 
Little Indian Princess 
Lunatic To Love 
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The 
New Testament 
Nightingale's on Vacation 
Old Testament 
Overnight Sensation 
Panic Attack 
Rawhide 
Revelations 
right side of the Beard, The 
Ring of Fire 
Rude Boys 
Rude Femmes 
Scarface 
Self Preservation Variation 
Shoes of the Fisherman 
Smooth Boy 
That First Step 
Toy Blocks 
Toys In The Attic 
Unknown 10c 
Via Dolorosa 
Wartley's Revenge 

Wartley's Revenge 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rogers, Haack, Jern 72' free Thomas, Jones 78'
Page Views: 4,008
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
A friend gracefully working his way up the first p...
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the greatest trad climbs at Smith and amoung the best 5.11's.
The upper two pitches are rarely done, only pitch 1 is described here.

Start out with some tricky stemming (1st crux)up an open corner with a thin crack then move right folowing the crack. Follow excellent holds up the crack through a hand traverse section into a changing corners section and finally finishing with a single face move (second crux) below the anchor.


Location 

Left of Heresy right of the Beard.


Protection 

nuts and cams to 3"



Photos of Wartley's Revenge Slideshow Add Photo
John high on the killer crack testpiece of Wartley's Revenge.
John high on the killer crack testpiece of Wartley...
Who was Wartley?  ...and why was he so pissed? <br /> <br />Finishing up the fun juggy section in the middle.
Who was Wartley? ...and why was he so pissed?

Fi...
Passing the crux, easier than gorge routes at the grade.
Passing the crux, easier than gorge routes at the ...
Comments on Wartley's Revenge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
May 22, 2006

Anyone done pitch 2, looks ok? Anchor???

By Eric Brown
From: Corvallis, oregon
Nov 2, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Upper pitches are pretty loose.

By Chris Wright
Oct 4, 2009

The upper pitches are certainly not as classic as the first, but the whole climb makes for a pretty enjoyable outing anyway. It is a bit loose, but it's Smith, right? It's all fun climbing and you get to visit the Hobbit Hole, a neat spot, and then do some fun ridge-running back to the Cinnamon Slab anchors. Worth doing.

By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Jan 14, 2011

This climb is really fun! It was my first .11 trad lead... ONSIGHT!! Compared to other .11's that ive TR'd it seemed a little soft? Great climb though with super fun moves!

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 14, 2011

Try Shoes of the Fisherman. Same grade, right next door ;)

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 9, 2011

I was surprised by the lack of feet on the traverse, as well as how awkward the final leaning crack was. Finishing crux is probably somewhat height dependent. Plenty of options for shorter folks, but I think being taller makes this move easier.