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Miscellaneous Scattered Routes
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Warthog 

Warthog 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Bailey
Page Views: 732
Submitted By: John Ross on Jul 19, 2009
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Rio cruisin the crux.
  • Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A couple of strong moves gets you to the 1st bolt. The crux is getting to the 2nd bolt. Either do a tough mantle, or stem to the right and use some small holds to stand up on a sloping ledge. Staying right of the bolt line, find some hidden holds and small feet to clip the third. Pull over the bulge to easier terrain to the chains.

    For top-rope climbing, scramble up the short 5th class section around to the right.


    Location 

    Walk 100 yards up the canyon trail from Two O'Clock Rock. The climb is found in a shady grove of pine trees.


    Protection 

    3 bolts to chain anchors.



    Photos of Warthog Slideshow Add Photo
    The hidden finger pocket.
    The hidden finger pocket.
    <a href='/v/warthog/106492936'>Warthog</a> 5.10c, Tank Canyon
    BETA PHOTO: Warthog 5.10c, Tank Canyon
    Rio and Josh on the lower part of Warthog.
    Rio and Josh on the lower part of Warthog.
    Calvin working the upper bulge.
    Calvin working the upper bulge.
    Comments on Warthog Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By John Ross
    From: Wasatch Front, UT
    Jul 19, 2009

    I'd call it a harder .10c as Perin and I both thought this felt .10d. But .10c is what we were told it is rated.

    By Christopher Sorensen
    From: Provo, UT
    Sep 5, 2009
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    Christian found a new hold that had a loose rock in it today, and I think that knocked this thing down to 10b or at least made it an eaiser 10c, but it's not 10d anymore if it was before. It makes the move to the second bolt significantly more doable.

    This climb was a lot of fun, with a cool start and a great move to the second bolt, but it is really poorly bolted (sorry to whoever bolted it). The bolts are all in undesirable places, or in areas that don't allow for good climbing at all if you followed them. Just my opinion.

    By Christian "crisco" Burrell
    From: PG, Utah
    Sep 5, 2009

    An interesting little line and yes, the new sharp hold (hard to find if you don't know right where it's at) makes the crux a lot easier.
    The bolting issue that Chris is referring to is that it would make more sense for the second and third bolts to be further right and, although it is unlikely, if you somehow fell at bolt number 2, you could easily deck. Also, a slightly longer chain for the anchor would be a good idea.

    By John Ross
    From: Wasatch Front, UT
    Apr 3, 2010

    Longer chains were installed again last fall.

    By Thomas Holmes
    From: Utah
    Apr 17, 2011
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    I like the first move off the deck:)and the mantle. i think it was the 3rd bolt that's placed poorly its reachy and awkward a fun short climb none the less...

    By Brandon Bishoff
    From: Austin, TX
    Jun 28, 2011
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

    The start is cool but the rest of the route is just alright and its pretty short. If it weren't for the start, i would have rated this just a single star route. Also, the bolts are in really bad places and it wouldn't be that hard to deck while trying to clip the second bolt, so be careful there.

    By Yorkenstein
    Jun 29, 2011

    That secret loose rock crimp is no longer there. It broke off today as I was climbing and I almost decked. I would say this climb is back to a 10c. Sorry

    By Christian "crisco" Burrell
    From: PG, Utah
    Oct 13, 2012

    If you want something else to do on this little wall:
    Some years ago, I inspected the line to the left that starts on the obvious flake. I considered bolting it and cleaned it a little. I sent it on TR and it was pretty cool. But I realized the opening flake might not stay there very long and wondered if it was really worth the effort so I didn't bother. It's a cool little TR though using some neat pockets.