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Warrior's Wall
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Warrior's Tears 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: M. Dudley
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Dustin Clelen on Jul 4, 2012

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Description 

Surprisingly fun, this route appears to climb ledge to ledge, but there is only one honest-to-goodness no-hands rest. The crux is near the top (more enduro than power) and is made easier if you're comfortable with hand jams (there's only one). It might be a bit soft for the grade - I onsighted it after not climbing for about 2 months (NOT my usual habit), and so did my buddy, Mike. Regardless of the rating, it's a heck of a lot of fun, especially down low.

Location 

About the middle of the wall, climb the obvious light streak just to the left of the obvious black streak.

For more information, check out "Arkansas Valley Climbing" by Tom Perkins.

Protection 

8-ish draws not including anchors, coldshuts at the top. Personally, I would bring one long (shoulder length) draw. About halfway up, there's a bolt that loads a biner on a standard length draw directly over an edge. It's not at the crux, but you could easily fall clipping the next bolt, and there's a ledge below.


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