This tower is composed of Wingate Sandstone and has a very interesting layer of limestone that acts as a belt for the tower 100 feet up.
The first and last pitch have some sandy spots but overall the tower has quite clean rock and good opportunities for protection.
The primary route on the tower is north facing for the first two pitches and then the route raps around the tower to the west and south.
From Moab drive north to the turnoff for Potash road. Take a left. Drive out to Long Canyon. There is a sign for Jughandle Arch just before the turn. Drive approximately two miles up the canyon until a distinct break in the Wingate walls appears on the left. Park. From the car walk up a ridge that generally heads to the right of the break. Follow the ridge until it reaches the level of the saddle then traverse left and up the slopes to gain the base of the tower. The tower is located on the left side of the break and the main routes face the saddle.
Climbing Season For the Long Canyon area.
Weather station 6.3 miles from here
2 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Featured Route For Warrior Tower
Happy Hunting Grounds 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
: Moab Area
: ... : Warrior Tower
This route goes free at 5.12a after a 1996 FFA by Steph Davis.Pitch 1 is a hand crack corner that pinches down to fingers and leads to a mantle. This is followed by a short off-width and a chimney before traversing right to the belay.The second pitch is one of the best I have ever climbed on a tower. The rock is quite sound and the crack is splitter. This is the crux pitch at 5.12a. It is exciting to leave the crack on face holds at the top of the pitch, but soon you find two solid bolts to c...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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