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Warping The Gale 

Warping The Gale 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: The Head Crew
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 20, 2001
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Starting on the big talus blocks and tanning slab at the upper (North) end of the wall and before the rope scramble, Warping The Gale is a fine warm up route. Every move is between 5.10a and 5.10d and on fine clean edges. The climbing is continuous, a bit tricky, and a complete gas. Thin at the top.


QDs only. At 80 feet, Warping The Gale needs only 10-12 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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Scott Guile finishing the crux on Warping the Gale
BETA PHOTO: Scott Guile finishing the crux on Warping the Gale
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Jul 22, 2003

A good warm up route and not too difficult, however the hike up the trail and the hill to get to the wall will wear on you once on the rock. A lot of loose flakes and rock on the upper half of the route. Bolts are difficult to see from gound because they are painted the same color as the rock. Make sure you can see the next bolt before making a tricky move!

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Jul 17, 2006

These climbs are more easily accessed from the north, as described in the StarCastle intro.

Nice route with good hands and feet at most every move. The arete is helpful during the middle portion of the climb. Climb a few feet above the anchors at the top and you can get a great view of the west.

By slim
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

a good route with a lot of fun climbing on big holds, up to a slightly awkward finish. the arete work was pretty cool.