Warner Valley Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||40.393, -121.3078 View Map Incorrect?
|Page Views: ||1,983|
|Administrators: ||Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Muscrat, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||Paul Bernard on Oct 27, 2010|
The central portion of the Loading Zone.
Several small crags, most with chossy rock, however, the Loading Zone is clean fine grain volcanic with splitter moderate cracks. The getting there description below is to the Loading Zone.
From the upcoming NE Cali Climbing Guide...
From the town of Chester take Feather River Drive toward Lassen N.P. and Drakesbad (dont head toward Juniper Lake). The first one-lane bridge you come to is called High Bridge, is about 5.5 miles from the town of Chester. Approximately .6 miles past this bridge, the road forks and you will follow the right fork towards Drakesbad get to Warner Valley. About 3 miles after the fork you will come to a second one-lane bridge. 1/4 mile after this second bridge, watch for a dirt road on your right. Turn onto this and make an immediate left onto a smaller dirt road (4WD recommended). Follow this 1/4 mile to the base of the cliff.
Climbing Season For the Northeast California area.
Weather station 8.0 miles from here
22 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Warner Valley
Scatmando 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a CA
: Northeast California
: ... : The Loading Zone
Has to be one of the best at the crag. Easier than it looks, maybe. The more you climb the crack (leaving the face holds out) the harder it becomes. Good practice for pulling difficult roofs. Climb up the well protected corner to a fun hand traverse left. Pull onto the ledge...or head straight up the crack....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
By Daniel Wade
From: Oakland, CA.
Jun 3, 2014
We climbed here on May 30, 2014. Great area and many moderate cracks as the description suggests. I lead what I think was a 5.7 crack (thin to wide) on the left side of the feature (perhaps Finger Crack). We TR'd from an anchor I built a slightly harder lie-back on the right (perhaps Black Crack 5.8) and a deceptively easy overhanging off width to the left (perhaps Sure Thing 5.7). There is a set of bolts on the top of the middle of the wall which allows for a TR of an overhanging jam crack/lieback - probably the most striking line when looking at the wall from below. It felt like 5.10 (perhaps Lady Fantasy?). We also TR'd an easy (5.7 - perhaps Second Street Scene) crack to the right. Plenty for lines for a trip back. See also rockclimbing.com/routes/North_....