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Short, but fun. Almost dead center in the Battle of the Bulge buttress between the cave and Jane Fonda's. Look for the 30' climb with a large flake resting at the base and small roof 10' above it. Scramble to the top of the flake, take a rest after a move and jam past the little roof. Cruise through the widening crack to a nice ledge on the right.
I saw a guide book (can't remember which one) with 5.8+ on the topo, but most will agree that there's a tough move or two getting off the flake and past the roof (9+?).
Singles from a #.75 Camalot to a #3 Camalot. Nice climb for those with a little rack.
Just above crux...
Finishing up wide hands. Anchor visible up and ri...
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 19, 2002
Yeah, definitely harder than 5.8+...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Mar 18, 2003
I lead pretty hard, onsight 5.11 and I BACKED OFF this route.....Not 5.8+!
|By Ryan Deppen|
Aug 25, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Although it may be harder than 5.8, the climb is a one move wonder from the stance just above the detached flake. From there it's cruiser hands. Just my $.02
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 12, 2007
I thought it was rated 5.9 in the book... Whatever, I guess. It stills falls in the category of "5.fun".
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008
cool little warm up. short. would say it's a 9.
|By James DeRoussel|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
A great route for your first IC lead. One move at 5.9 really, and the rest is sinker hands. Great pro.
Apr 2, 2010
As a climber new to crack climbing this was a good route to develop technique of combination of crack and face climbing
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 23, 2010
fun short and varied with a tricky move or two off the flake