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Warm Up Route 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Lee Carter, Mike Grimm, Nathan Brown, Eddie Medina 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 744
Submitted By: nbrown on Oct 5, 2008
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Cool overlapping features on bomber rock.
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  • Description 

    This is the "Warm Up" for 2 other new routes on this wall, Solar Plexus, and Indescent Exposure. This is an excellent route of the same style of climbing, but on an easier scale. The cruxes are isolated and well protected. Since this wall is back in an alcove, it tends to be much more shady than the other routes on this side. I believe it gets brief AM sun.

    It climbs the left-hand line up the steep buttress left of Two Pitch.

    Carefully climb up and left onto ledge and find the small cam out right from stance. Continue up past 2 bolts, gear, then 2 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor at the top. 100'


    Location 

    On The South face just left of "2 Pitch". Climb the mixed route up the center of the short steep buttress.


    Protection 

    light rack. There are 4 bolts and an anchor.



    Photos of Warm Up Route Slideshow Add Photo
    Side angle shot of the wall.
    BETA PHOTO: Side angle shot of the wall.
    Comments on Warm Up Route Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Coz Teplitz
    From: Watertown, MA
    Oct 25, 2008

    Where does this route go in relation to the arete between the gully and the steep white face to the left? An old guidebook shows a 5.8 that climbs the arete - is this route to the left or right of that arete?

    Right on for finding new lines on TR! There are more to be found, I'm sure...

    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Nov 26, 2008

    This route climbs the overhanging white and orange wall (buttress) that is recessed back in the 2 pitch gully. It is located between the 5.8 arete and 2 pitch. The steep white face to the left of the 5.8 arete is "Solar Plexus".