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 ADVANCED
The Quarry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Wrecker 
Banquet T,S 
Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher T 
Bowels, The T 
Depression  T 
Eastern Heart S 
Elephantiasis S 
Finger Wrecker 
Frank's Tame Years T 
Frank's Wild Years T 
Kleptocracy S 
Koolaid T,TR 
Marry Me, Becky T 
Moby Dick 
Mummy, The T 
Offwidth Bulge T 
One Night T,S 
Recession Arete S 
Scotland 'Wales' 
Shark Jaw T 
Sharkcicle T 
Short Tour, The T 
Silver Bullet T 
Something to Do 
South ArÍte 
Southwest Face 
Stimulus S 
Tough Love T 
Unknown T 
Warm Up Crack T 
Whale, The 
Yearling 
Unsorted Routes:

Warm Up Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Menendez, Crill, Caylor, Gallagher?
Season: colder times
Page Views: 1,630
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Juile on the crux section of Warm up Crack.

Description 

This is the second from the right most route in the main Quarry Wall area. It ascends a slightly awkward hands-to-fist size cracks where your elbows or shoulders seem to get in the way. Some may feel the rating a bit stiff, but apparently some solo the route (not me).

If you set up an anchor up and left, you can TR the challenging Offwidth Bulge to the left.

Location 

This is the 2nd climb from the right. It goes up to the left side to the thin block above. It is just left of The Mummy.

Protection 

Cams #0.75 to #3.5 (old size) Camalots work. A belay is a bit challenging to find. You can belay above the Offwidth Bulge with #0.5, 0.75, 1, 4 (old size) Camalots.


Photos of Warm Up Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Warm Up Crack ascends the double crack system on the right.  The left side of the column is a funky offwidth that feels very challenging for a 9.
Warm Up Crack ascends the double crack system on t...
At the top.  Short but sweet.
At the top. Short but sweet.

Comments on Warm Up Crack Add Comment
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By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Jan 13, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a great little warm-up. Really a high-quality nice problem, for the little scrappy stuff here. It's probably worthy of two stars (especially since I gave "The Bowels" a star -it's cool!). Jimmy Menendez is the one who first brought us out here in 2003/04 I think, he, Kevin, Hank, and I soloed or led all these fun little scrappers around that point in time, I think I even had names for them at one point? Cool to see people getting after this fun little stuff.

The left side of this column is a really fun scrappy overhanging offwidth, Vedauwoo-esque, an exciting problem.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Sep 23, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a really fun, really short climb!

josh
By Doug Redosh
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One can TR this climb from the anchors on The Mummy, with a #2 Camalot for a directional, then climb the left side of the Mummy for a fun 5.9+.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Short, strenuous shoulder squeeze problem made this feel like 5.9, but probably 5.8 for those smarter than I. Continuing up left edge arete to top of Mummy was harder (10a?), but considerably more elegant.