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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Warm and Fuzzy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark Roth and Shane Plummer (maybe?)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Dec 28, 2013
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Halfway up when you place the gear that gives you ...

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  • Description 

    This is a fun little line. It is worthy of a quick lap if you are walking by en route to the Chockstone Chimney raps or headed for the East Slabs. I don't know if it's been climbed before, but it should be climbed some more....

    Smear up the initial slab to a bulge where you can get a suspicious cam in a licheny slot. Ten feet higher there is a cluster of huecos where you can stuff a #2 Camalot and some tricams if you have them. Then move up left on a ramp that turns into a right-facing corner. The higher you get, the better the gear. When you hit the ridge, head up left to the top of the Lumpe Tower.


    Location 

    This is near the East side of the South face of the Lumpe Tower summit block. From the notch between Tower 1 and the Lumpe Tower, scramble down the gully to the east. This obvious line is on your left. It is just left of a short, huecoed wall.


    Protection 

    Gear is not great on the first half. Tricams are ideal, we had a 2.5, but a little bigger would be better...



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