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Warm and Free 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike McEwan, Steve Grossman, Dave Baker, Rich Thompson
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 2,134
Submitted By: Steve Pulver on Jul 1, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Clay racking up for pitch 2

Description 

Like with all routes I've done at the Reef, I wouldn't have objected to another bolt. The person that goes up there with the drill can put it 10 feet above the last bolt on the final pitch.

We tried to do the direct start, then we (meaning I) bailed, out to the muddy dihedral on the left. This is not recommended.


Location 

We descended the main gully, then bushwhacked around to the base. You'll see a large ledge that makes an easy traverse to the start.


Protection 

I don't remember using any nuts on this. Probably doubles of .3 up to #3 Camalot.



Photos of Warm and Free Slideshow Add Photo
warm and free from an odd angle, taken from high on aegir.  the pitch 2 corner is the most obvious feature.
warm and free from an odd angle, taken from high o...
Superb pitch of endless liebacks.
Superb pitch of endless liebacks.
The awesome second pitch of Warm and Free as seen from climber's right
The awesome second pitch of Warm and Free as seen ...
Clay starting off on pitch 3; he finished the pitch in light rain
Clay starting off on pitch 3; he finishe...
Comments on Warm and Free Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 4, 2012
By jbak
Jul 1, 2008

Please don't even talk about adding bolts to established classics. Warm and Free is considered a mellow, low-stress route by Reef standards.

By John Peterson
Jul 1, 2008

I can't imagine where W&F would need another bolt. It protects just fine.

If you want to add bolts go to Shanashee :-) :-) :-)

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 1, 2008

Adding bolts to W&F is the stupidest thing I have heard in a week and I have been reading the Forum Sport Climbing History. Adding bolts to Shanashee is more so. If you don't want to take step it up set up a TR and be amazed at what can be done with good slab technique and a strong head. If you don't have the head don't lead it but don't even think about bolting classics down to your level. This is pathetic. If you really want to bolt things I would be happy to have your help. There are tons of lines just waiting to be bolted so you can get up them.

Sincerely, Jbaks shorter, meaner twin brother.

By John Peterson
Jul 1, 2008

You know, I DID put a smiley next to my comment about Shanashee!

That was the season I was climbing with Tom Hilbert - he would lead absolutely anything. Did Two for a Peso before the chicken bolts got added there. Not that I led it though ...

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 2, 2008

I wondered what those things were. Is that a sign that I never text message anyone. Hell, I just figured out what LOL and IMHO mean. TFAP was pretty dicey back then.

By Braxtron
From: ...
Jul 3, 2008

I doubt Steve was serious about adding bolts.

Hey Eric, here's a great site for you: www.netlingo.com/top50text.cfm. It has all the hip lingo that us young people use.

I disagree with #48, though. It's supposed to be White Trash Female.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 3, 2008

Hey Braxton, I will study that until I have it memorized. I did not see POS. I see that a lot when people describe routes I have done. I assume it means they had a positive experience.

By Luke Bertelsen
Jul 4, 2008

Was out there today for some holiday climbing that does not involve:

1. Falling onto a pad.

2. Following a line of very closely placed steel, or

3. Grabbing artificial holds.

Great Climb!! No need for added bolts.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 7, 2008

Way to go Luke for not getting involved in 1,2, or 3.

By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 2, 2009

It's safe. Doesn't need any more bolts, just focus. Link it up with Rapture for an excellent day!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 6, 2009

andy - good job on the ascent!

ditto everyone that said not to add more bolts.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 5, 2012

The last run out is definitely dangerous. Do not fall off. The pro is between your ears. This is what makes old school, old school.

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

Maybe I shouldn't give this away (but if you're all the way down here on the comments then you're looking for beta--or just bored), but depending on which way you go, there is a good 0 tcu that somewhat mitigates that final runout. Still probably best not to fall.

Although this is a "mellow" route by Reef standards, I find that all but the second pitch of the "Warm and Steep" link-up have some degree of spice, with the last pitch (2nd of Rapture) being the scariest for me. The spice is not too bad but just right to make it an even more memorable route.

[edit] As I side note, I feel like the description of the route here is lacking and should be amended to reflect that the logical way to do this route (and the way it's usually done) is to link with Rapture.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 1, 2012

Both of the bolts on the second pitch have been replaced with stainless steel sleeve bolts provided by the ASCA. Many thanks to the ASCA for providing this hardware!


Diamond USE taper bolt & cromoly SMC hanger replaced with modern equipment from the ASCA
Diamond USE taper bolt & cromoly SMC hanger replaced with modern equipment from the ASCA

By Scott M. McNamara
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jul 2, 2012

Thanks for replacing those bolts!

Scott Mc

By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 4, 2012

A number of things about this route.

The Direct start is really worth doing and with micro cams it protects pretty well.

There is now a Direct Finish that goes straight up at the beginning of the big ledge at the top of the main corner. Belay at the tree for the direct finish. It is a lot harder and less run out.

If you do the original route the pitch above the ledge starts way over to the left and starts up a nice corner but steps left into a vertical crack that leads to a big block about 15 feet above the start of the corner. It then works up and right eventually passing just two bolts.