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The Matron
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East Ridge T 
Father Knows Best T,S 
North Crack T 
North Face T 
North Face Right T 
Pasta Man T 
Quiche on a Leash T 
Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 
South Face T 
Sunday Comix T,TR 
Warlocks T 
West Face T,TR 

Warlocks 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chip Ruckgaber and Skip Guerin
Season: Fall
Page Views: 890
Submitted By: bhoran on Jan 2, 2009

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Bob Horan on the 2nd ascent of Warlocks.

  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a continuos, steep to slightly overhanging crack system with fist to finger jams and a reachy exit move at the top. One the best cracks for its grade in the Flatirons.

    Location 

    Located on the lower east end of the south face of the Matron. From the southeast end of the Matron hike up slope a short distance to the prominent, left-leaning crack/corner system. Climb up from a large block and begin jamming up the fist to finger crack, exit right over a bulge to the belay, rap station.

    Protection 

    Gear up to a #4 Friend with rappel station at the top.


    Photos of Warlocks Slideshow Add Photo
    Southeast face of the Matron. Photo: Bob Horan collection.
    Southeast face of the Matron. Photo: Bob Horan col...
    Bob Horan on 2nd ascent of Warlocks.
    Bob Horan on 2nd ascent of Warlocks.

    Comments on Warlocks Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By DavidHume
    Oct 4, 2009

    Anchor needs work! There was one bolt with a runner nest, including one relatively new sling, and two stoppers that had popped out and were hanging from the sling. We re-set one stopper and backed it up with a cam for toproping, then the last person rapped from the bolt and stopper.

    The first half is quite dirty (pigeon shit) and loose in places, but the climbing is interesting and continuous. The last half is great fun and the whole thing would clean up with a little work.