Direct (right) start to Magie Noire, with four bolts, joining Magie Noire over the lip of the prow/jutting roof feature. This is the eighth route in from the left, or second from the right.
I put the first bolt so you can stand on the ground and clip it to protect the opening moves. Use this, or use it to auger up and pre-clip the second, or skip this and just clip the second. Choose your own adventure....
Boulder, shouldery, on nice blue-and-black rock reminiscent of the Winchester Cave at Rifle.
Right side of the Stepping Stones sport crag.
7 bolts plus two-bolt anchors.
|Comments on Warlock Pinchers
|By Kevin Neilson|
Sep 25, 2008
The crux is low (at the 2nd bolt) and thereafter the difficulty eases considerably. Getting off the ground may be hard for the short; at 6'1", I could just reach the starting crimper; others will have to use poor intermediates with poor feet. The crux moves are interesting; look for the hard-to-see R sidepull right of bolt 2. A modified kneebar (more like a knee sidepull) may help exiting the crux. Clearing the roof is fun but much easier than the crux grade.