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Routes in East Ridge
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L.O.O.P. (aka League Of Outdoor Pursuits) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Little King S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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P.B.S. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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R.N.R S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stormbringer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wargasm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Equipped- Unknown, FFA of 2nd pitch- Joe Mills and Taylor Roy |
| Page Views: | 655 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Jan 4, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
Wargasm is listed as a fully bolted, two pitch, 5.12 open project in the new Flatirons guidebook. We didn't free the first pitch because it was so dirty, but we are claiming the FA of the harder second pitch.
Pitch 1 (5.11+?)- from a very nice alcove, climb solid but very licheny rock to a comforable ledge with a 2 bolt midway anchor. The crux of this pitch is getting past the second bolt. With a bit of scrubbing, this pitch will be worth climbing.
Pitch 2 (5.12b)- from the ledge, work up a slopey ramp and pull around the left side of the black arete. Small edges, pebbles, and delicate footwork get you to a jug on the face at mid-height. A thin crux on sidepulls gains bigger holds that lead to the anchor.
We did not scrub or clean these pitches so beware of loose rock. Also, it's very possible to hit the ledge if you fall trying to clip the second bolt of pitch 2. Hence the PG-13 rating. If this got cleaned and properly scrubbed, it could easily become a 3 or 4 star route - especially if done in one long pitch.
As always, be careful not to lower off the end of your rope getting off the 2nd pitch.
Since the history of this route is unclear, I will gladly fix and update the information if we are incorrect in claiming an FA of pitch 2.
Pitch 1 (5.11+?)- from a very nice alcove, climb solid but very licheny rock to a comforable ledge with a 2 bolt midway anchor. The crux of this pitch is getting past the second bolt. With a bit of scrubbing, this pitch will be worth climbing.
Pitch 2 (5.12b)- from the ledge, work up a slopey ramp and pull around the left side of the black arete. Small edges, pebbles, and delicate footwork get you to a jug on the face at mid-height. A thin crux on sidepulls gains bigger holds that lead to the anchor.
We did not scrub or clean these pitches so beware of loose rock. Also, it's very possible to hit the ledge if you fall trying to clip the second bolt of pitch 2. Hence the PG-13 rating. If this got cleaned and properly scrubbed, it could easily become a 3 or 4 star route - especially if done in one long pitch.
As always, be careful not to lower off the end of your rope getting off the 2nd pitch.
Since the history of this route is unclear, I will gladly fix and update the information if we are incorrect in claiming an FA of pitch 2.
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