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Overhung Wall
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Warf Factor 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jessie Guthrie, 1992
Page Views: 2,006
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Aug 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Jeff making the crux reach.
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Description 

This is a high quality route on the largely ignored Overhung Wall below Sport Park. No chipping or Z-clipping here. This is the 3rd route from the left and climbs out the largest section of overhanging rock. Restful, vertical slab climbing leads to fantastic, jug climbing through the overhang and a crux at the lip (a kneebar is very useful). After pulling the lip, easier slabby climbing leads to the anchors.


Location 

This is just to the left of the dihedral that marks the right end of the main overhang.


Protection 

5 or 6 bolts to chains.



Photos of Warf Factor Slideshow Add Photo
On the good hold, crux is done with just runout slab remaining.
On the good hold, crux is done with just runout sl...
Ashley starting the steep section.
Ashley starting the steep section.
Me traversing left on good holds.
Me traversing left on good holds.
Jeff in the "5.9" section - photo of the fun steep section.
BETA PHOTO: Jeff in the "5.9" section - photo of the fun steep...
Comments on Warf Factor Add Comment
Show which comments
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Aug 21, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun one-move route.

By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 27, 2008

This is by far the best climb at Sport Park that I've been on. Please give me a heads up if you have any other recommendations. Awesome roof to a super rad crux at the lip.

By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jul 30, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This climb is awesome. Doesn't look like it gets much traffic since it had almost no chalk on it when we began working it. *Beta* The kneebar crux is really unique, you have to get the body position just right or that next hold will feel too far away.

Wear pants or a pad, even with pants my left knee is all cut up.

By Jesse Guthrie
From: Prague Czech Republic
Jun 4, 2010

When I first did this route, we called this area Surprising Crag... because none of the routes where chipped our over-bolted like the Sports Park, and I hope the routes are still the same way when I did the first ascents. :) Jesse

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Can't comment on the knee-bar, but the full-on dyno up with the left from the same holds is big fun .12- at the hardest. Really fun, short line.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 27, 2011

I didn't heed the advice for pants/kneepads, 'cause I thought I was tough. Turns out I'm not. On my OS attempt the kneebar cut me up enough that on my redpoint burn I taped over it. I recommend pants, kneepads, or being tougher than I.

Fun route!