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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 
Air Voyager With Report S 
Automotive Supply House T 
Baalbek T 
Baldwin's Chimney T 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 
Bat Heaven T,TR 
Blood Sport TR 
Bombay T 
Bombs Away aka B52 T 
Bug Squad T 
Campsite Host Boulder 
Candlestick T 
Cannonball T 
Captain Nemo T 
Central Scrutinizer, The T 
Cool Hand Luke T 
Cornelius T 
Crankenstein T 
Cupcake T 
Deception T 
Deep Throat T 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 
Dual T 
Easy Jam T 
Ejector-Rejector TR 
Elevator T 
Escalator T 
Etude For The Left Hand TR 
Etude For The Right Hand S 
Failure to Communicate T 
Father 1 T 
Final Cut, The T,S 
Finally T 
Flare Thee Well T 
Flying Buttress T 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 
Friday the 13th T 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 
Ghost Dance T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
H & H Grunt T 
Hairlip T 
Hamburger Crack T 
Handjacker T 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemoglobin T,TR 
Hesitation Blues T 
Horticulture T 
Humper T 
Hurley-Fowler T 
In The Dark T 
In the Groove T 
Jim Jam T 
Jim Jam Junior T 
Joke T 
Knee Grinder T,TR 
Knothole T 
Left Torpedo Tube T 
Lower Progressive T 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
Lucky You T 
Max Factor T 
MaxiLash T 
Middle Parallel Space T 
Mother 1 T 
Murphy's Law 
Nemo's Nemesis S 
Nemo's Toad T,TR 
New Mutant T 
Nitrogen Narcosis T 
Octagon T 
October Light T 
Old Eyeful T 
Outrider S 
Par Four T,TR 
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 
Piton Perch T 
Popcorn Farce T 
Postman, The T,S 
Pretty S 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space T 
Right Torpedo Tube T 
Right Winger T 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer T 
Slat T 
Slick and Superficial T,S 
Slit T 
Slut T,TR 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver S 
Step Ladder T 
Stinkzig T 
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
Thin Lizzy T 
Thunderbolt T 
Twinkle Toes 
Unknown Crystal Slab 
Unknown Mantle 
Upper Progressive T 
Upper Slot Left T 
Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Unsorted Routes:

War Zone 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Sean Bradley
Page Views: 1,484
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 16, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Cory Fleagle cruising the upper section of War Zon...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


War Zone is another excellent line in the Friday the 13th area of the Nautilus. This line ascends the low angle face to the steeper headwall to the left of Friday the 13th and Deception.

Climb up the interesting incipent cracks on the lower face before launching on the fun bolt protected face above. Good edges and crystals make for a thoughtful, balancy, and stellar climb. As always, the grade is debatable, perhaps soft at grade, particularly compared to Vedauwoo crack lines.


Four bolts on upper headwall to a 2 bolt rappel anchor. This route requires supplemental gear to reach the upper bolted section, gear up to 2 inches. A small camming device (0 TCU or equivalent) is nice to protect the seam between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

Photos of War Zone Slideshow Add Photo
First pitch of War Zone. A nice break from burly c...
First pitch of War Zone. A nice break from burly c...

Comments on War Zone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Collins
Jul 14, 2003

The climbing above the last bolt is the crux and borderline 'S'. At the very least there's big whipper potential.
By nolteboy
Jul 22, 2005

A Vedauwoo face climb that actually has good edges on it, this is a very worthwhile route. The last couple of moves really keep your attention!
By Chris Beh
Jun 21, 2010

There is an intermediate anchor above the 5.9 trad section before the hard climbing. This is a great route by itself, climbs more like a City of Rocks,ID route. I'd rate it PG13, and it requires some concentration above small gear.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2011

A really cool climb! Link the two pitches together and keep a cool head as the 2nd pitch is mainly old button heads and thin holds. Awesome though how they just keep popping up as you need them to keep it at the grade! Go straight up from the last bolt to find the anchors.

So you know, the second button head on the head wall is rusty. Would be great if someone replaced those with decent hardware some day. At least the final bolt has already been replaced. Also, a green Alien is very nice in the horizontal before the last bolt.
By honeyjacket
Apr 7, 2015

Anyone know about the bolted thing that leads to a crack to the left of this? I checked it out lowering off the bottom War Zone anchors, and it looks pretty cool, but it needs a cleaning. I'd be pretty surprised if it hasn't been done, even if it was aiding the bolts to get to it.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Boise, ID
Apr 7, 2015

Per the first edition of Zach's book, it was a Matt Couppel project. That book came out close to a decade ago though, so if its still a project, it should be reclassified as an open project.
By michalm
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Good, sustained, thin, face climbing on the upper face. The SMC buttonheads are all spinners and essentially all rusted. I was quite relieved to get small gear in the horizontal before the final (bomber) eye bolt. This route would be a good candidate for hardware replacement. It appears that War Zone is toproped almost daily and led very rarely.
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