|The Far Side
War Party ascends the north western arete of a small spire that also features the route 'The Chief' (5.10c). The climbing is slightly overhung with pockets and sidepulls and is difficult to read from the deck. Good moves, but too short.
Upon arrive at the Far Side from the Bubble, head right and follow a loose trail about 100' uphill, around to the back of the spires. Once you reach flat ground, War Party and The Chief will be visible on the left.
The 2 bolts are reasonably spaced, but the entire difficulty of the route is between them, and a fall near the 2nd bolt could land you on the rocks below. Above the 2nd bolt, the climbing is a little runout, but much easier.
You can set up a top rope with a long sling. There are 3 bolts atop the spire, two of which are in good shape, but the only rappel rings are attached to the bolts by old webbing. Rather than rappel, I elected to solo exposed 5.4 down the south side of the spire, then through the easy chimney on the west side of the rock.
|By Floyd Hayes|
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R
A top-rope can be set up after climbing two pitches up Shute-Mills (or one of the climbs to the left that share the same anchor) and Initiation Rite.
|By Tyson Miller|
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 11, 2012
Old Rap Rings are gone and new ones are there.