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The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) 
At Last 
Atlas Shrugged 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) 
Better Eat Your Wheaties 
Boneless Chicken Ranch 
Bushy Crack 
Cereal Killer 
Chief, The 
Curse of Madame C 
Death to the right 
Far Out 
Far Side Chimney 
Farthing, The 
Feelin' Your Oats 
Gorilla Finishing School 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face 
Initiation Rite 
Left Behind 
Lichen It 
Mystery Hole 
Near Side Chimney 
New Tradition 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies 
Old Spice 
Old Tradition 
Pile, The 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 
Rite of Passage 
Saviour Heart 
Separation Anxiety 
Seymour Frishberg 
Shute-Mills Route 
Something Good 
Sport Roof Left 
Sport Roof Right 
Step To The Left 
Two-Bolt Slab 
War Party 
Unsorted Routes:

War Party 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c R

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Summit and Jeff Follet - 1993
Page Views: 232
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 1, 2009
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War Party ascends the north western arete of a small spire that also features the route 'The Chief' (5.10c). The climbing is slightly overhung with pockets and sidepulls and is difficult to read from the deck. Good moves, but too short.


Upon arrive at the Far Side from the Bubble, head right and follow a loose trail about 100' uphill, around to the back of the spires. Once you reach flat ground, War Party and The Chief will be visible on the left.


The 2 bolts are reasonably spaced, but the entire difficulty of the route is between them, and a fall near the 2nd bolt could land you on the rocks below. Above the 2nd bolt, the climbing is a little runout, but much easier.

You can set up a top rope with a long sling. There are 3 bolts atop the spire, two of which are in good shape, but the only rappel rings are attached to the bolts by old webbing. Rather than rappel, I elected to solo exposed 5.4 down the south side of the spire, then through the easy chimney on the west side of the rock.

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By Floyd Hayes
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

A top-rope can be set up after climbing two pitches up Shute-Mills (or one of the climbs to the left that share the same anchor) and Initiation Rite.

By Tyson Miller
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 11, 2012

Old Rap Rings are gone and new ones are there.