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 ADVANCED
The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the right T 
Far S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpion's Chair S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

War Party 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Summit and Jeff Follet - 1993
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

War Party ascends the north western arete of a small spire that also features the route 'The Chief' (5.10c). The climbing is slightly overhung with pockets and sidepulls and is difficult to read from the deck. Good moves, but too short.

Location 

Upon arrive at the Far Side from the Bubble, head right and follow a loose trail about 100' uphill, around to the back of the spires. Once you reach flat ground, War Party and The Chief will be visible on the left.

Protection 

The 2 bolts are reasonably spaced, but the entire difficulty of the route is between them, and a fall near the 2nd bolt could land you on the rocks below. Above the 2nd bolt, the climbing is a little runout, but much easier.

You can set up a top rope with a long sling. There are 3 bolts atop the spire, two of which are in good shape, but the only rappel rings are attached to the bolts by old webbing. Rather than rappel, I elected to solo exposed 5.4 down the south side of the spire, then through the easy chimney on the west side of the rock.


Comments on War Party Add Comment
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By Floyd Hayes
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

A top-rope can be set up after climbing two pitches up Shute-Mills (or one of the climbs to the left that share the same anchor) and Initiation Rite.
By Tyson Miller
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 11, 2012

Old Rap Rings are gone and new ones are there.