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Center Wall
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War Paint 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,666
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Description 

This route ascends a vertcal face, that leads to a slab, and then back up the vertical face on the rightside of the less overhung cave, and just before the corner that hides viewing of the routes around it from inside the very overhung cave.

Two sections are sustained 5.9 climbing, though it's very well protected.Fun moves challenging using almost every vertical 5.9 move there is, except offwidth (which I don't like anyways!)


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.



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By Giulio
From: Waterville, ME
Jul 14, 2007

Do you need to lead this first to TR it or can you scrammble around up top to set up your line?

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 15, 2007

I'm 95% sure you need to climb it first, given that most of the routes in the canyon don't go all the way to the top of the cliff. I'm going there Monday, so I'll update this comment when I get back.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 28, 2007

Scrambling along the top is doable - If you're willing to set up some top anchors and rappel down a pitch, after climbing up the other side! This isn't doable.

I'd forgotten about the sheer magnitude of the area; many routes here could easily be multiple pitches, I think it's simply the base area (and subsequent rockfall) that deterred the Hatchett brothers et al from running most routes multi-pitch. Second pitches on most routes would create a blind nasty rain of rock down onto people in the base area.

By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 14, 2011

The first hanger on this route has been removed. The good news is that the climbing remains ~5.7 until the after you clip 2nd bolt.

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Sep 16, 2012

It's 5.1 to the second bolt. First bolt not needed at all....

By Chandler Heppe
From: Nevada City, CA
Jan 4, 2014

fun longish climb to warm up on and get the blood flowing in the forearms, lots of really nice handholds and slightly overhung in places.