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War on Rugs 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

Type: Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 250
Submitted By: LeeAB on Mar 28, 2010
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Graded 5.10d in the guide book. This route is essentially a V2 boulder problem to get onto the wall followed by easy 5.10 climbing.

Reach from the ground up to the hollow looking and sounding flake that trends up and to the left. Pull on and hoist up into some pockets that really are not all that good. Once in the pockets stand up and continue up the face relatively easily to a thin section just below the anchors.


This route starts in the first steep low bulge you come to in the section. It is the furthest right route on the bulge and starts on a big flake that rises up and left. To the Left of Crankenstein.


Bolts to a bolted anchor.

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By heath dieckert
From: Austin tx
Apr 11, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This is a classic route. One of my favorites. The beginning is bouldery but don't let that put you off. Stick clip first or second anchor and it's quite safe. Last time I climbed one of the anchor clips at the top didn't close automatically so be prepared to hang your own biner from the chains.