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Pillar of Despair
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Drugged and Driving S 
Jutte T 
War Machine S 

War Machine 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 718
Submitted By: 72HW on Jan 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for the Pillar of Despair, Horseman's C...

Description 

Technical and pumpy five bolt route following obvious features up the 30 foot face. Looks a hell of a lot easier than it is.


Location 

Center of the west face and the first obvious line you see as you walk into the Cemetery area.


Protection 

5 bolts (homemade hangers), chain anchors



Photos of War Machine Slideshow Add Photo
Zach and Shannon doing their thing on War Machine.
Zach and Shannon doing their thing on War Machine.
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 11, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Thin technical face moves down low to a long reach/dyno for a sidepull at the 3rd bolt and another long reach/dyno at the 4th bolt for a jug to an easy mantle move below the anchors. Technical, tricky and stout for the grade, this one packs a lot of climbing into a short package. This is one of those routes that could feel easier if tall.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I didn't feel the need for any dynos, but the climb did require some intense footwork - very enjoyable once you can figure out the moves. The lower part will make your fingers hurt! I'm only 5'8", so your beta may differ from mine...