War Machine 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | 72HW on Jan 25, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for the Pillar of Despair, Horseman's C...
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Description Technical and pumpy five bolt route following obvious features up the 30 foot face. Looks a hell of a lot easier than it is.
Location Center of the west face and the first obvious line you see as you walk into the Cemetery area.
Protection 5 bolts (homemade hangers), chain anchors
Zach and Shannon doing their thing on War Machine.
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 11, 2010
rating: 5.11a
| Thin technical face moves down low to a long reach/dyno for a sidepull at the 3rd bolt and another long reach/dyno at the 4th bolt for a jug to an easy mantle move below the anchors. Technical, tricky and stout for the grade, this one packs a lot of climbing into a short package. This is one of those routes that could feel easier if tall. |
By Nelson Day
From: Victorville, CA
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| I didn't feel the need for any dynos, but the climb did require some intense footwork - very enjoyable once you can figure out the moves. The lower part will make your fingers hurt! I'm only 5'8", so your beta may differ from mine... |
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