Start on a big boulder that leans against the north face of Witches Tower. Make a high first clip and power up laybacks to series of technical face moves (crux). Reach the third bolt and move right to a short left-facing corner. Climb up passing two more bolts to the anchor. You can place a small stopper or Alien before reaching the anchor. Great climb on good rock. This should clean up nicely and in my opinion is one of the best face pitches in the canyon at this grade.
Five clips and a small stopper will get you to a two-bolt anchor.
|By david goldstein|
Jul 28, 2006
Surprisingly good -- better than almost every climb at Sherwood Forest -- but by no means a classic. Needs brushing. Be prepared to stick clip the first bolt.
|By Ken Leiden|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2008
Made the not-so-clever decision of top-roping this route from the anchors on Romancing the Stone, located high on the arete formed by the N and W faces. It seemed like it would be the easiest way to top rope this and the other two routes on the N face by simply moving a directional runner each time (the RTS anchors are directly above Teenage Terrorists). But there is a lot of loose, funky rock between the top of these north face routes and the anchors on RTS. Our rope dislodged a good-sized block that exploded between my partner and myself. Suggest if you want to top-rope here, use the actual route anchors instead.
Btw, War is Love has some really good moves on positive holds.
|By Scotty Nelson|
Jun 21, 2010
Disagree. Licheny and disturbingly close to the other routes. Not bad, just not that good either.
|By Mark E Dixon|
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 24, 2012
I thought the sequence was fun and devious. Lichen didn't bother me.
This wall is a good addition to the canyon with crimpy, sharp, powerful moves.
From: Royal Oak, MI
Jul 18, 2012
Found the route to be a little dirty with lichen. As someone said above, the four routes on this wall are very close together - bolt lines are about 5-6 feet apart.
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Calling this one of the best pitches of the grade in the canyon is pretty silly. There is about 10 feet of climbing on it, then a bunch of meandering up easy dirty/lichen climbing. The protection isn't well thought out either. The 3rd bolt should be lower so you can sneak a quick clip off the lower gaston. In it its current location, the stance is still bad, and if you blow the clip you will probably crater on the starting block. I don't think I would recommend it to somebody breaking into the grade.