Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Project Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apocalypse '91 
Bottom Feeder 
Defenseless Betty 
Eighth Day (aka MC 900 FT Jesus), The 
Fist Full of Dollars 
Gay Science, The 
Gayness, The 
Goofy Foot 
Hang 'Em High 
Hang 'Em Higher 
Irie Meditation 
Living in Fear 
Mouse Trap 
Of Mice and Men 
Present Tense 
Rehabilitator 
Sick Little Monkey 
Simply Read 
Simply Redlined 
Sometimes Always 
Strange Ranger 
Top Feeder 
Twisted 
Waka Flocka 
War and Peace 
Unsorted Routes:

War and Peace 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Chris Weidner, June 20, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Jan 3, 2013
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

War and Peace extends Simply Read for an additional 100 feet, creating a proud line up the entire Project Wall.

Clip the anchor of Simply Read (13d), then follow bolts up and right through steep and blocky terrain, with no good rest, until the wall's angle lessens to just over vertical. Trend up and left on thin moves until the 33-meter point (and anchors for Simply Redlined, 14a). Have a much-needed rest, then punch it for another 45 feet of steep, 12d climbing to the very top of the cliff.

To reduce rope drag I stick-clipped the 5th bolt of Simply Read, used loads of long slings, and four DMM Revolver biners along the way.

This is an exciting undertaking!

  • A 100-METER ROPE OR SEVERAL LOWERS ARE REQUIRED TO GET DOWN.


Protection 

31 bolts, plus the anchor.

Several bolts are very helpful for dogging but will likely be skipped on the redpoint.



Comments on War and Peace Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -