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Bonsai
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War and Peace S 

War and Peace 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dawn Shimberg, 1993
Page Views: 2,686
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (96)
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War and Peace :: 5.9
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

War and Peace is a steep haul on schist jugs that finishes in/around a thought-provoking corner made by a distinct fin of rock. If you want to be gawhuffed at by aging locals, add the sit-start (maybe V2) in a small cave that involves a heel-hook and a foot cutting traverse move (look for the chalked holds by your knees).


Location 

This route neighbors Masterpiece on the steep main wall of Bonsai. War and Peace is one of the first climbs you encounter if you approached from below.


Protection 

Bolts. Quick clip anchors.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 16, 2013
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 21, 2007

Is it to the right or left of Masterpiece?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 21, 2007

It is to the right of Masterpiece, Michael...

By Tristan Perry
Dec 1, 2007

A really good route for the grade. Jugs everywhere...where to grab?? It gets pumpy fast! The last moves are sweet, exposed, aesthetic. Great climb that would be better if it were on any other wall. It's kind of overshadowed by its neighbors (and always a bit wet, it seems). Not much harder when wet.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 16, 2008

actually, the aging locals probably did the sit start before you started climbing, LOL, so won't laugh at the idea.

By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Jun 20, 2010

I found it to be wetter and sketchier, and not necessarily easier, than Masterpiece.

By nataliejwong
From: Toronto, Canada
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The start is a tricky bouldering move, but once you get it, the rest of the route is good. The last part of the route was a bit tough, not sure if it's the crux. Did a super high hand-foot match to get to the anchors, it might be different for someone who's taller with a longer reach.

By Sean Godwin
From: Montreal, QC
Mar 21, 2011

Guidebooks says it's the wettest route at Bonsai - can someone elaborate? Is mid-april too early to expect to climb this? Thanks!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Sean, it is wet until mid summer. Also after any rain it stays wet for about a week. The drainage for the cliff runs right over this route. It is truly a tragedy.

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Mar 21, 2011

I feel like every time I've climbed this route it has looked soaking, but every key hold has been dry. The clips are safe and the holds are big, It's worth getting on even if it looks wet as there's a good chance it's dry, and if not....it's still a blast

By S. Neoh
Mar 22, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

My experience with this route has been similar to Erik's. Looks wet but climbs dry if you watch where you place your hands and feet. And somewhat a similar experience with Jug Line (but more pumpy) to the right of this route.
Enjoy.

By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Oct 29, 2012

The final moves into the corner were first climbed by the route Bombs Away. We TR'd W&P but thought it was to wet to bother bolting.

By Zane Dordai
Jul 18, 2013

Masterpiece and Centerpiece were both wet up top today but this one stayed dry in between the crucial holds...enough so to the point where it didn't really matter what was wet. Plenty of big dry feet to choose from. Felt harder and better than Masterpiece for me. A great day starter, and tons of unique movement.

By Russ Keane
Oct 16, 2013

This climb was one of my highlights of the year. It is just so dramatic and pumpy and cool! Although I have to admit, I don't think it deserves a 9+ rating. I think more along the 9 or 9- or even 8+.