Wanted Man  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Adam Winters, Jeremy Freeman - OS/GU - Oct 2008 New Route:  Yes Season:  Spring, summer, fall Submitted By:  Adam Winters on Mar 31, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The bottom of 'Wanted Man'

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Description 

Fun and varied climbing. The start can go one of two ways- The left option isn't bad when you figure out the high-step move, and the right way feels like 5.11 just getting off the ground (without the cheat-stones). The choice is yours, but the climbing above is worth the effort.

Pitch 1: Pull an unprotected funky high-step/rock-over move down low and left on the slab to reach edges and the flake (crux). OR, start to the right in the seam with a tough move off the ground with or without cheater-stones (crux). Work up and right following the nice flake, thru a wider section until you reach the short finger crack in the hidden right-facing corner. Step left around the arete via a large high foothold and work up and left to the thin flake. Continue straight up to the short 'V' groove then make a big step right into the main crack system just below the sketchy-looking block. Climb up to the belay stance just left of the detached block (same belay as 'Breaking & Entering').

Pitch 2: Same as 'B&E'. Step up and right, under the tree, then up the slab slightly left to the finger crack/seam above. Follow into the next crack on the right, then up to the big ledge. Build an anchor.

Descent: Rappel off the mussies at the end of pitch 1, or after pitch 2 scramble up then right along the ledge to one of the two descent gullies (4th class).

Location 

Just left of 'Breaking & Entering', near the very left side of the slab.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3"

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BETA PHOTO: 'Wanted Man' topo