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Wanderlust TR 

Wanderlust 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 428
Submitted By: dragons on Sep 11, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Wanderlust. Route is approximate, taken from descr...

Description 

This route begins right of M Weave. Instead of following M Weave up, head up diagonally to the right. This is the crux where you have to keep your eyes out for small holds. Climb up and to the right of the larger second roof described in M Weave. Once you're past the roof, trend left and up.

Location 

This route is just right of M Weave, near Big Block. Lower down or walk down the short path which is to the right (as you face the cliff).

Protection 

You can use the same protection as for M Weave: There's a single glue-in bolt near the edge which can be used for one anchor. There are sturdy metal pipes further back, although they are kind of short (about 8 inches high). There's also a nice solid tree about 20 ft back from the ledge. A couple of 20 or 30 foot slings or static lines will help.


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