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Wanderlust 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Albert Dow and Michael Hartrich - Summer 1981
Page Views: 1,278
Submitted By: Anna C. on Apr 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Description 

P1 - Start up the slab, clip three bolts then find a good cam placement. Pull the overlaps above (crux)and cruise to the two bolt belay/rappel anchor. 5.8+

P2 - Wander up and left, placing small gear (tricams are useful) between the widely spaced bolts, to another two-bolt anchor (which you can't see until you're about 10 feet from it ... just keep moving up and left). 5.7


Location 

On the left side of Humphrey's, look for a nice reddish slab left of a blocky left-facing corner ...


Protection 

Bolts and standard rack to #2 cam. One rap with double 60m ropes, or with a single 60m, you can rap straight down from the top of P2 to the rap anchor on the top of P1 of Run Don't Walk, then to the ground from there.



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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Apr 29, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great Route, the first pitch is one of my favorites at Humphreys. S

By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
May 2, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree Jon! I like this route more and more with every time I do it. Some great moves on it on solid rock. The second pitch is fun, but nowhere near as good as the first IMHO.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 29, 2013

Fun route. It reminded me a bit of The Saigons over at Cathedral.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 29, 2013

From the P1 anchors, the shiny bolt directly above it seemed so logical. I'm glad I made this mistake because the second and third pitches of Above and Beyond were pretty alright. The crux of P3 (after the 2nd bolt) was particularly enjoyable.

By AlpineStart78
From: Conway, New Hampshire
Apr 30, 2014

This description could use an update: First off, this route was retro-bolted by permission in 2001. It is easy to find as there is a fresh blue paint marker designating WMNF boundary on the cliff. The preferred start is to clip the first bolt, then move right (and back left) to bypass a very tough mantle. Once you move back left pass another bolt, then a .75 cam with extended sling to the left, then commit to great holds but steep climbing. Find the good hold (out of sight) to clip a bolt from. Many people end up grabbing the bolt if 5.8 is their limit. Either an awkward high step, or easy work-around 5 feet to the right. One more bolt on moderate ground leads to the 2 bolt anchor. P2 is really fun but wandering 5.7 face (can be combined with P1 with a 60m rope). Donít go straight up from the anchor as that is a newer, harder, route.

By Martin Hawkes
From: Intervale, NH
May 20, 2014

The North Conway Rock Climbs guide gives the P2 a 5.6 rating which seemed appropriate.