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Wanderlust 

Wanderlust 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley, early '80s
Season: Std Overlook
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: Paul Davidson on Nov 14, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Nickle Slot to CrackNUp
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A really fun climb with some moments that will wake you up here and there.

There a number of ways to do this climb.
You can add some real testy face climbing depending on how direct you make the start. You can climb the face/arete just left of Cloudwalk for a testy lead. Otherwise you can come into it via the beta photo.


Location 

Between Cloudwalk and Peg Legs is an arete and broken up cracks. Climb the arete and cracks. There are two alternate ways to finish the upper stuff. Take the first crack that exits right or continue up to where another crack heads out right. Both are good climbs.


Protection 

Std Overlook rack



Comments on Wanderlust Add Comment
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By J. Hickok
Sep 2, 2012

Climbed this route for the first time. Instead of exiting out of either crack options to the right, I continued straight up the crack. Climbing it this way you finish via Pegleg (right). This felt more natural because you followed the crack straight up instead of exiting to the right, and there is one fairly tricky move getting up to the slot beneath the roof.

Not sure if PG13 is for exiting out left, but gear is fine going straight up.

By Paul Davidson
Feb 4, 2014

As I recall, I put the PG13 on there for doing certain of the starts that as I recall don't protect for a ways, i.e. the arete towards Cloudwalk. The rest of the climb is good crack. And as I recall, either of the two crack exists protect fine.
I've also done that st8 up into P2 but personally prefer the other exits just for different style. More of a balancy climbing. Hence the name... Wander where your lust takes you.