|545 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 450 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10+ [details]|
|FA: ||Greg Garretson, Tom John 10/3/09 Ground Up|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Greg Garretson on Oct 22, 2009|
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo
Pitch 1. 5.10+, 60m
Start on ramp 30’ up hill from 3 Pines. 20’ to 1st bolt. At 3rd bolt, move to flakes. 5 bolt has no hanger. Sling with wire nut. Move left. Small runouts through the 6th, 7th, 8th. Optional #1tcu.
Move right onto slab staying right through 9th & 10th. Traverse right on sidepulls through 11th.
Optional #3tcu before mantle. Don’t fall here. Really. Clip bolt then climb corner. Optional #3tcu. Last bolt on top of block. Move left to anchor.
Pitch 2, 5.6, 25m
Reverse last moves. Step across gap. Climb up & right through easy chimney. Clip bolt on face then move right onto face. Small gear on face plus #3”cam Climb up & right to ledges. Bolt & gear anchor.
Pitch 3, 5.9, 60m
Move up & right around big roof. Pull through smaller roofs. 3 bolts. Runout through pumpkin patch with 1 bolt to large ledge (5.4) Climb dihedral with 4 bolts. Step out of corner to slab. Great climbing. Then final moves to ledge.
This route is on the Southeast face of the West Ear.
The wall has a large green headwall. Start on ramp 30’ up hill from 3 Pines. 60m rappel to the right of pitch 3. Bring 2nd rope.
Gear: 1 set of cams to 3”. 1 wire for 5th bolt.
1st, 4th & 7th bolts were later added on pitch 1.
Feel free to skip them. 12 (22”) runners + Draws.
60m rappel to the right of pitch 3. Bring 2nd rope.
BETA PHOTO: Photo Topo
Greg Garretson on 1st pitch of the First Free Asce...
GG on the beginning of the 3rd pitch.
The Kiwi, Tom Johns, on the 3rd pitch of the FFA.
GG on the first pitch.
Tom Johns drilling on the first.
Walk of the Gods. This pitch ended up being a dead...
Tom on the FFA of the 2nd pitch.