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Rabbit Ears (Rogue)
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Wandering Soul T,S 

Wandering Soul 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Greg Garretson, Tom John 10/3/09 Ground Up
New Route: Yes
Season: August-October
Page Views: 740
Submitted By: Greg Garretson on Oct 22, 2009

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Walk of the Gods. This pitch ended up being a dead...

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Description 

Pitch 1. 5.10+, 60m
Start on ramp 30’ up hill from 3 Pines. 20’ to 1st bolt. At 3rd bolt, move to flakes. 5 bolt has no hanger. Sling with wire nut. Move left. Small runouts through the 6th, 7th, 8th. Optional #1tcu.
Move right onto slab staying right through 9th & 10th. Traverse right on sidepulls through 11th.
Optional #3tcu before mantle. Don’t fall here. Really. Clip bolt then climb corner. Optional #3tcu. Last bolt on top of block. Move left to anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.6, 25m
Reverse last moves. Step across gap. Climb up & right through easy chimney. Clip bolt on face then move right onto face. Small gear on face plus #3”cam Climb up & right to ledges. Bolt & gear anchor.

Pitch 3, 5.9, 60m
Move up & right around big roof. Pull through smaller roofs. 3 bolts. Runout through pumpkin patch with 1 bolt to large ledge (5.4) Climb dihedral with 4 bolts. Step out of corner to slab. Great climbing. Then final moves to ledge.

Location 

This route is on the Southeast face of the West Ear.
The wall has a large green headwall. Start on ramp 30’ up hill from 3 Pines. 60m rappel to the right of pitch 3. Bring 2nd rope.

Protection 

Gear: 1 set of cams to 3”. 1 wire for 5th bolt.
1st, 4th & 7th bolts were later added on pitch 1.
Feel free to skip them. 12 (22”) runners + Draws.
60m rappel to the right of pitch 3. Bring 2nd rope.


Photos of Wandering Soul Slideshow Add Photo
Photo Topo
BETA PHOTO: Photo Topo
GG on the first pitch.
GG on the first pitch.
Greg Garretson on 1st pitch of the First Free Ascent.
Greg Garretson on 1st pitch of the First Free Asce...
Route Topo
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo
GG on the beginning of the 3rd pitch.
GG on the beginning of the 3rd pitch.
Tom Johns drilling on the first.
Tom Johns drilling on the first.
The Kiwi, Tom Johns, on the 3rd pitch of the FFA.
The Kiwi, Tom Johns, on the 3rd pitch of the FFA.
Tom on the FFA of the 2nd pitch.
Tom on the FFA of the 2nd pitch.

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