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Wandering Albatross
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 4
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Routes in H3
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Face, Ramp & Crack TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Finger Crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wandering Albatross T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | FKA: George Peridas, Aug4, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 2,543 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | ElGreco on Aug 17, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A super-fun and quality route with varied climbing that makes the most of the short wall by wandering left and right! You will use face climbing, possibly a mantel, fingerlocks/ringlocks, awesome handjams and fists. Start on the large flake near the middle of the wall and work your way on it via a strenuous mantel or a long reach up and left. The lip on the flake is intermittent, so work out your sequence! Then follow the finger crack above to where it meets a horizontal crack. Another finger crack continues up, slightly further right - you gain that with a semi-blind reach. Follow the new finger crack till it meets a horizontal hand crack above. Now make a long traverse right with your hands in a sumptious hand crack (a little dirty, but good) and good feet. You will meet a short, vertical hand crack directly below the anchor, which widens near the top.
Protection
On toprope, there is big pendulum potential on this route. The swing is "clean", but could be unnerving for some. If there are two of you, get your belayer to pay out a bunch of slack if you swing out to dampen the swing. If there are more than two, tie into the middle of the rope and set up a second belay with your rope end off to the left to stop the swing.
If leading, bring protection between 0.5"-3".
If leading, bring protection between 0.5"-3".
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