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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland North
> Willow Hole Area
> Dunce Cap
Waltzing in the Wonderland
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
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Routes in The Dunce Cap
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Dunce Cap, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Spirited Away T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Waltzing in the Wonderland T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Vern Stiefel & Randy Vogel, 1992 |
| Page Views: | 1,517 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on Mar 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The crux of this climb is in the first 10' so unless you are comfortable soloing 5.11 with potential to fall into a deep chasm, stick clip the first bolt. Technical underclinging and footwork gains a large edge. From here waltz up the dihedral with lieback and backstep moves (10+). A #0 TCU protects moves to the 2nd bolt.
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