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An interesting start leads to a an easy wide crack. The start is an undercling that leads to a length of liebacking, along good rock. It then has the odd move as you work from one wide crack to another. Finally, after you pass a slung tree and horn, you come to a divergence: a really steep offwidth/squeeze on the right or an easy wide crack to the left. The climb goes left. I tried right but the rock was rotten.
All in all a nice lower sequence followed by an easy upper sequence.
WARNING !! One last thing, after the lieback sequence, the next sequence involves a crack with a thin death flake. Beware. Helmets are advised.
Probably the easiest approach is to climb up the tree filled gully/flake right of Callitwhatyouplease, and you will end up at the base. The crack that climbs alongside the vertical wall on the left is Chicken Chickenhead, and The Waltz climbs the next crack to the right, going left of the obvious chimney, Tenderloin. Rappel off a tree at the top of Tenderloin.
Standard rack, some runners and a few large pieces (hexes or large cams) for the wide sections... or you could not protect those certain areas. Set up your own anchor up top, so bring that gear also.
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 18, 2006
Correct me if I'm wrong, Nathan, but I remember a couple of guano holds :(
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Fun route. The funky death flake/wide crack looked sketch and we opted instead for a short, fun, easy, slab sequence on the left to pass it (maybe this is standard route..?). There was a bit loose rock up higher and a sketchy looking terminal chockstone just above the wide crack/death flake (or slab-age).