Walt's Wall Route 5.4
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.4 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marr on Jul 30, 2001 |
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Erik Marr on the 2d pitch of Walt's Wall Route.
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Description Great multi-pitch beginner's trad line. The route climbs the right-hand side of Walt's Wall in three pitches with belay/rap anchors at the top of each pitch.
P1. The most enjoyable pitch of the three. Start just left of the Coke Bottle dihedral and climb up an easy crack to a fairly large horizontal crack. Veer left and up and continue to the first set of anchors. On busy days with a lot of traffic on the wall, traverse another 10-15 feet and set a gear anchor to avoid the crowds coming down the Walt's Wall Route rappel.
P2. Climb a right angling ramp (very easy) past a couple old 1/4" buttonheads to the I-bolt belay at the top of the pitch.
P3. The final pitch continues up an easier, low angle slab with sparse protection to another I-bolt anchor.
Either walk off the top and veer right into a gully that will take you down to the road, or rappel from the top of the route (two 60m ropes will take you back to the ground, or you can use one rope and hit each of the intermediate stations on the way down).
Protection Standard rack with medium cams. There are bolted anchors at the top of each pitch, as well as a couple of old bolts along the way.
BETA PHOTO
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BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Walt's Wall route goes up this flak...
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Walt's Wall, the first pitch has some fun moves. I...
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BETA PHOTO: climber on ramp between 2nd and 3rd anchors.
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Walt's Wall; the flake on the f...
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| Comments on Walt's Wall Route |
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 30, 2001
| The route generally follows the slabby area seen in the picture immediately left of the huge dihedral formed by the intersection between Walt's Wall and the Coke Bottle. The P2 right-angling ramp described by Steve can be clearly seen in the photograph. |
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 10, 2002
| On that ramp however, stay on the ramp. Don't go into the chimney behind it. Super easy climbing, about as asthetic as Ugo. And the pro sucks. |
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 10, 2002
| Also, at the top of the second pitch, you have two options: go right for the somewhat run out super easy finish (maybe 5.2) or go left with the bolts for Jake's Variation which feels hard for 5.5 if your tenuos friction slab skills are not up to par. Belay at the top with gear to prevent a very slabby pendulum for the second, then traverse 15 feet to the rappel anchors, which are impossible to miss. |
By Rob Migliore
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.5
| Nice first pitch to build beginning leader confidence. Second pitch is easy except for the 10' flaring crack, which is scary if you've never climbed a crack before and you actually have to lead it. I've probably done this route 3 or 4 times, as it's a decent route when other things are busy or overwhelming. |
By boardline22
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 1, 2007
rating: 5.4 PG13
| Not only was this my first trad lead, but it was also my first multi pitch. I enjoyed it. |
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.5
| This is THE Vedauwoo beginners route. I've lost count of how many time I took a noob up this climb. It never fails to impress, since it is frequently not only the first climb, but also the first multi-pitch climb for many. Some find the first pitch the most difficult, at "5.4", and others get disconcerted by the final slab which is somewhat unprotected. I'm going out on a limb and calling this a 5.5 climb by today's standards, not "Vedauwoo standards." |
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