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Wally World T 

Wally World 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,765
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Jul 22, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: The keyhole.

Description 

This is one of the better beginner multipitch trad lines in the area. All of the pitches have reasonable pro and very easy climbing punctuated by short sections of 5.5 climbing. From the point where the approach trail meets the rock, hike down about 50 feet to a well-worn spot underneath a tree. The route follows the slab "arete" to your right, and is identified by looking about 40 feet up to a pair of slot/offwidths.

P1. There are several variations. The easiest, and most well-protected, is to follow the slabs up and then skirt the offwidth slots to the left. Move back right where convenient, and then follow some buckets even further right to a huge and obvious belay spot near a boulder. A fun variation follows the left of the two slots (5.6), moving right to the buckets at the top.

P2. Move left, turn a corner/overhang (5.5), and move back right to another huge belay spot at the base of the headwall.

P3. Move left on the slab again, and ascend the "keyhole" just to the left of the headwall area.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Wally World Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the first pitch.
The start.
BETA PHOTO: The start.
Second pitch slab.
Second pitch slab.
A fun alternate to the key hole.  A nice flake just to the right a little above
A fun alternate to the key hole. A nice flake jus...
Comments on Wally World Add Comment
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By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 25, 2002

Great easy climb. There is a decent run out on the 3rd pitch, but, it's pretty easy... Good climb to do while recovering from injuries, I did it with a half-recovered severed extensor tendon in my left hand!

Central Corner sure looks harder than 10a, but, the pro looks bomber. This is what you will want to climb if you come up here!

We did a 2 pitch route up, and to the right of Wally World that ended in a double-crack dihedral thing (in the back of a chimney). The rock wasn't as solid as it looked from below, and there was only a couple semi-akward 5.7/8ish moves. It starts from just below the steepest section of the walk off, and the 2nd pitch doesn't come into view until you are done with the first pitch scramble... Not sure what this was, but, it's about a 5.7, one-star, or so??

Nobody else was climbing here!

By Buff Johnson
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

We found a 60m rope was a wise choice for the first pitch. Pro can be sparse (about every 15-20') but the climbing is not too difficult. The opening moves were a little freaky, but a blue tri-cam was useful in the opening sequence.

The second pitch has a off-width like variant which is protectable at 3" and is not too difficult. The third pitch ends up in almost a scary traverse, but the holds are where you need them. I think I used 3-4 tri-cams on the last pitch with a fist sized cam to protect the traverse.

Belays we made were 1" to 2.5" seams where you find them. The walk-off is no problem.

There is an unknown variant on the final pitch that goes left instead of finishing right through the keyhole. It has a half-mantle, then to a fingertip overhang crack, to a handcrack finish - I would say 5.9 on this variant (a quick/committing stem escapes the fingertip position - good placement offered with the size of a green Alien), ending with a seam for a good stance, pro, & belay position to watch your second.

By Kirk Ranney
Sep 28, 2006

I tried to find this climb a few weeks ago and had difficulty figuring out where to begin. We ended up climbing some of the bolted slab routes, and though they were fun I would like to figure out the start for Wally World. IF anyone can help please post up or email me. Thanks
Kirk

By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Nov 11, 2006

Kirk, WW starts on steep rock (relative to the rest of the route) in a shady alcove approx. 100 ft up and right from the bolted slab. The climbing isn't very aesthetic for the first 30 ft or so.