Wallface/ADK High Peaks Conditions

I'm planning a backcountry climbing trip this weekend to the Dacks and interested in climbing The Diagonal on Wallface. Has anyone been up there within the past few weeks? How are the black flies?

Fwiw, black fly conditions can change a lot over the course of a few days. So even if someone where up there this past weekend, things could be different by time you get there. Take any feedback you get about yesterday with a grain of salt.

The black flies are out in the high peaks. Not as bad as I've seen. But you have to prepare for them either way (100% deet, headnet). This is the peak season for black flies in the ADK High Peaks.

My only trip into Wallface they were horrible, it was July 4 weekend a couple years ago. AM there were few, but by the evening they were the worse I've ever experienced anywhere. YMMV

Technically the Diagnol area is closed due to falcons. I spoke with someone at the end of May who works with the DEC and they were supposed to send a field tech out to try and figure out where the aerie was but haven't heard anything else about it. See below.

dec.ny.gov/outdoor/7870.html

Enforcement is probably near impossible without dedicated human resources but the birds are probably the more serious of consequences if they take exception to your presence. They are also the ones who will ultimately suffer if they are spooked. I would encourage you to wait until the closure is lifted.

As for bugs in the High Peaks, it depends on some different factors but expect them to be heavy. In avalanche pass a few weeks ago they were thriving.

Greg Kuchyt wrote:Technically the Diagnol area is closed due to falcons. I spoke with someone at the end of May who works with the DEC and they were supposed to send a field tech out to try and figure out where the aerie was but haven't heard anything else about it. See below. dec.ny.gov/outdoor/7870.html Enforcement is probably near impossible without dedicated human resources but the birds are probably the more serious of consequences if they take exception to your presence. They are also the ones who will ultimately suffer if they are spooked. I would encourage you to wait until the closure is lifted.

Awesome info Greg! :)

That's funny about Black Flies Kevin, my only trip into Wallaface (camping at ponds but hiked to base of cliffs) July 1st-6th 2012 not only were there no blackflies but don't think I used bug spray all week.

Greg Kuchyt wrote:Technically the Diagnol area is closed due to falcons. I spoke with someone at the end of May who works with the DEC and they were supposed to send a field tech out to try and figure out where the aerie was but haven't heard anything else about it. See below. dec.ny.gov/outdoor/7870.html Enforcement is probably near impossible without dedicated human resources but the birds are probably the more serious of consequences if they take exception to your presence. They are also the ones who will ultimately suffer if they are spooked. I would encourage you to wait until the closure is lifted. As for bugs in the High Peaks, it depends on some different factors but expect them to be heavy. In avalanche pass a few weeks ago they were thriving.

Thanks for the info Greg. I'm not trying to get dive-bombed by falcons anyway. Wallface has been on my mind for a while, but I suppose it will be worth my while to curb my eagerness until the Fall when conditions are prime. As for the flies, it seems hit or miss. For sure, I'd go prepared with headnet and DEET.

As a backup plan, I'd like to take a hike out to Gothics and get on some multi-pitch slabs there. Any input on the top routes at Gothics for a 5.9 trad/5.11 sport climber?? I'm always up for a 5.5 slab romp, too.

Black flies have been almost zero lately. King Phillips Spring, Deadwater, Chapel Pond, Beer Walls, Poko, Cascade Pass, Eastern High Peaks trails. I haven't been showering much.. only swimming in Lake George after the days over. Maybe flies are attracted to the perfume smell of soap?

Regular route on Chapel Pond Slab is 5.5. We let some guys (who were super cool) pass us who soloing last week.

Black flies were biting at the Beer Walls last weekend but I've seen worse. Killed a couple deer flies too (you should see the welt on my partner).

Bill Kirby wrote: I haven't been showering much.. only swimming in Lake George after the days over. Maybe flies are attracted to the perfume smell of soap?

I like your style Bill

Tom Sherman wrote:That's funny about Black Flies Kevin, my only trip into Wallaface (camping at ponds but hiked to base of cliffs) July 1st-6th 2012 not only were there no blackflies but don't think I used bug spray all week.

Exactly my point! :)

Bill, I'm sure now I've recently climbed downwind of you. Or there was a dead bear in the woods somewhere nearby.

Kevin, must have been a bear though I'm big amd hairy too. The stink freezes right off you when swim until your legs go numb!

Bill Kirby wrote:The stink freezes right off you when swim until your legs go numb!

And of course, shrinkage...

youtube.com/watch?v=8DoARSl…