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Wallface

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Wallface 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,600'
Location: 44.137, -74.035 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,074
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: proto on May 28, 2009
Forecast:
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri
Rain
57° | 44°
og
63° | 38°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
66° | 46°
Chance of Rain
63° | 45°
Clear
70° | 50°
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Climbers on Free Ride(5.11a) 9-5-09
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Description 

Wallface is the largest and tallest cliff of NY state: almost 800' of very steep rock. With its quite long access from the end of the road and rather undefined access to the base of the cliff, Wallface definitely has an alpine dimension. Don't be scared though, climbing this huge cliff is really very interesting and enjoyable!


Getting There 

Park at the abandoned village of Upper Works, near Henderson lake. Follow the path (often very muddy ...) towards Indian Pass. You can go up to Summit Rock to have a look at the cliff and chose a line of access in the bush from there. Another option is to leave the path just before it crosses the stream for the last time and follow some cairns to the base of the cliff. This latter option is much faster and very convenient but won't give you the opportunity to have a general look at the cliff .

Budget about 3h from the car to the base of the cliff if you go for the quick option. Add at least 30 minutes if you stop by summit rock.


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wallface:
The Diagonal   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 7 pitches, 860'   
Free Ride   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 8 pitches, 735'   
Browse More Classics in Wallface

Featured Route For Wallface
Houdini Traverse.  I think book lists as 10c.  I'd say 5.9...

Free Ride 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Wallface
Awesome hard route up clean, good rock. Full disclaimer: I only climbed to the top of the 4th pitch; the pitches above were wet and there was a Peregrine Nest on the 5th pitch ledge. If someone who has done the full route wants to take over this page, feel free. I just wanted to add it because itís such an awesome route.Pitch 1. 11a 70ft. -Climb up the right facing corner with 10a-ish stemming until you can clip the bolt. Bust left on crimps (crux) until you can pull around the arete. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Wallface Slideshow Add Photo
Wallface
Wallface
Wallface from the summit of Algonquin.
Wallface from the summit of Algonquin.
Wallface from Algonquin in October
Wallface from Algonquin in October
Comments on Wallface Add Comment
Show which comments
By MojoMonkey
May 22, 2012

Weather- and bug-wise, when is prime season for Wallface?

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 23, 2012

Best weather with no bugs: fall (late August through October). Wallface has BAD black flies, often worse than other cliffs for some reason.

Sometimes you can lose the bugs as you get higher. Other times they get worse as you climb higher. Pray for wind.

By Don Ford
Oct 13, 2012

In bug season wear long sleeve shirt and long pants, tuck pants in socks if you can. DEET soaked bandana under helmet that you can rub on face and neck. I wore above outfit and only suffered bites on hands and neck.partner wore tank top and shorts. His legs were covered with blood from his knees to his ankles. he got sick later that night from black fly saliva,puked for 2hrs at wallface lean-to. I HAD TO DRINK THE YUKON JACK ALONE.

By Andrew Jylkka
From: Columbus, OH
Feb 13, 2013

What's the bug situation in March?

By Sickler
May 19, 2013

I just got back from a couple days at Wallface. The black flies were just starting to come out. It was beautiful up there.

By Mike McLean
Jul 15, 2013

Mr. Lawyer speaks the truth. Black flies were HORRIBLE. We were swallowing them on the rappels at 5 pm. Never seen it quite that bad.