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Wallface, Daks Questions
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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Feb 14, 2013
Rumney

[fwiw, I'm not being negative in my responses - funny how caution is interpreted by some as negativity. Kevin can fuck off for caring]

Little Finger is pretty easy. It wouldn't IMO be worth going to Roger's Rock just to do that one route. The remaining routes are, IMO, harder slab (5.7 and up). Can't imagine ever soloing any of them and not soiling myself at least once. The routes I did there were all very high quality and it's a definite destination for slab in the ADKs. But not solo.

There's always Chapel Pond slab, but that will take time to dry.

There's also slides on Snowy Mt (central ADKs) but they're not easy.

Crane has very little long easy stuff, although there's a new Belleview Slab area with some easier slides on them. Still need some cleaning. Benefit for Crane is most routes face south and are dry early in the Spring. Also means the black flies get started there earlier too (and they are really bad at Crane once they're "in").

I think some of the high peaks backcountry slides are probably your best bet for solo rock, unfortunately for your needs they could all be rather wet in May with snow still melting from above. Southern and Central ADKs just don't have a lot of long slides, and most of them are on the tallest mountains in the region and will have snow melt issues.

Spring is just not a good time for (especially solo) climbing the ADKs without some type of annoyance (or two). I spend nearly all my Spring climbing in the Gunks and move north once the Gunks start to get crowded. If you want long pitches of dry rock, look south.


FLAG
By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 14, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Kevin quit bummin our trips man


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Feb 14, 2013
Rumney

Ben Brotelho wrote:
Kevin quit bummin our trips man


Stop planning crappy trips!

It doesn't sound like he wants to waste his time pursuing dead ends. Trying to find dry rock in the ADKs in the early to mid Spring is trying to fit a square peg in a round hole. So climber beware and expect to be skunked at least some (but more likely most) of the time. Locals can find dry rock, because they don't drive hours to get there and go from wall to wall doing the driest routes. Anyone with a couple hour or greater travel (especially looking for easy soloing routes) should just consider heading elsewhere.

This is of course just one man's opinion. Only been avidly doing outdoors stuff in the Adirondacks for a decade+ now.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 14, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Kevin Heckeler wrote:
Trying to find dry rock in the ADKs in the early to mid Spring is trying to fit a square peg in a round hole. So climber beware and expect to be skunked at least some (but more likely most) of the time.


That's the problem, the only way you're gonna get the square peg in a round whole is if you get it good and wet first!

The best lessons are learnt the hard way anyway...


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Feb 14, 2013
Rumney

Ben Brotelho wrote:
That's the problem, the only way you're gonna get the square peg in a round whole is if you get it good and wet first! The best lessons are learnt the hard way anyway...


Or, do what wise people do - learn from other's mistakes and heed advice every now and then. Learning the hard way in climbing only leads to injury and early death.


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Feb 14, 2013

The Stoned Master wrote:
As a warmup to wallface and my high peaks experience (going slightly off topic) are there any longer, easier (5.4/5.5 or less), 5th class climbs that are farther south in the park? Meaning free climbable, safely, reasonably, in march or april? A solo few day trip would be good for my head and my next logical progression. Thank you

Hmmm... probably not. I'm not sure what free solo will do for your head. I probably would soil myself on Little Finger if it's wet the whole way.

Why no alpine ice climbing? Pinnacle, Trap Dike, North Face of Gothic would be great in March.

In general, March and April will be wet on those big alpine style routes. But on a good day, you can probably go cragging in t-shirt.


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By Simon Thompson
From New Paltz, NY
Feb 15, 2013
Photo by Tony Lopez

Yeah the problem in March and April is finding rock that is dry enough to climb. There aren't really many options for long easy routes that won't still be snowy/icy/wet, especially up in the peaks. You could try the Old Route at Hurricane crag as it faces south and offers about 300' of 5.3. Catharsis(5.5) at the Poko slab could be one of the first slab routes to dry out. Other stuff you could check out:
-The Great Chimney(5.6, 200'), Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
-Weissner Route(5.6, 300'), Upper Washbowl
-Old Route(5.4, 400'), Rooster Comb
-Crane Mountain

For the record, I wouldn't recommend soloing with people who you don't know or haven't climbed with before. One of the great advantages of soloing is not having to be responsible for the safety of another person. When your life is on the line only you can really know your limits and sometimes having another person around(especially a stranger) really complicates things. Obviously no one can tell you what to do, which is one of the best things about climbing, but I thought I'd share my $.02

Best of luck and stay safe!


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 15, 2013
Day Lily.

Thanks Simon. Awesome suggestions.


FLAG


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